Adventures with Julia

Friday August 5, 2016

What a couple of hot desert days we have had. Early yesterday morning while it was cooler than very hot, we drove a half hour to the ancient cemetery of Nuri (slightly east of Karima on the map) to see 22  crumbling Egyptian style pyramids dating from 664 BC, when the most powerful of all the Pharaohs, Taharqa, was buried there. He was powerful for having enlarged his territory more than any other pharaoh. As in Egypt they had 45 degree angles. Unlike Egypt, they were only 30 meters high. We walked around the historically interesting, but photographically boring cemetary.  So here is a photo of the bakery we stopped at for some fresh, hot bread.

Bakery near Nari cemetary.  Typical Sudanese bread.

Then we drove back to the Rest House, ate a late breakfast and said good bye to the staff, who had treated us very well under trying conditions. Not only was the air hot, humid and murky even in the evenings, the AC struggled to make anything remotely cool, the cold water came out so hot we had no relief even in the shower and the internet hot spot they let us use was only intermittent at best.

Nubian style entrance to the Nubian Rest House we called home for three nights.

Feeling uncertain but game about our coming camping experience, we headed southeast from Karima through the Bayuda Desert eventually crossing the Nile and turning south to Meroe (pronounced Mer-O-A). About 2.5 hours into the 5 hour drive on good 2 lane highway, Mortada suddenly veered off the road onto the sand and drove about a mile to a nomad encampment.

Nomadic encampment

Abdel was quite pleased to introduce us to the residents with whom he has become good friends. Several women were hanging out in the shade of their temporary structure, while the men were out with their camel herd. I will include photos of the structure as it is impossible to describe, being made with tree limbs, sticks, cardboard and anything that would allow airflow without letting in sun. The space included several single bed frames for sitting and lounging as well as sleeping. I saw toothbrushes sticking out of the rafters and large cloth bags hanging from the walls most likely containing clothes, bedding and personal affects. Another structures included a permanent brick building used as a kitchen, a empty lean to affair used for corralling animals at night and another temporary dwelling where the grandmother had her own space that was more enclosed and dark.

Medina, the lady in charge

It was a delight to meet the lady of the camp, Madina, her pregnant 18 year old daughter, Umbala, whose wedding Abdel attended nine months ago and her 15 year old daughter, Dawa, who is engaged to a cousin she will marry when she is 18. Then we met Madina’s elderly mother, also called Madina, a cousin named Thuria and a mid wife staying with them until the baby, due any day, is born, They were so warm and welcoming that we chatted and laughed with them for a good hour.

Medina’s daughter demonstrating the smoke bath.

We learned more about the smoke bath I mentioned earlier with the Hassan family. Two of the women demonstrated their smoke bath, which occupies a corner of the space, for us by starting a fire with acacia wood in the round pit. When it gets smoking, they wrap fabric around themselves, sit over the hole and let the smoke seep into their pours. How it cleans them I have no idea. However, they all have beautiful smooth skin. We took many photos and they had fun laughing at pictures of themselves. They were as curious about us as we were about them. Abdel told us that in spite of living a nomadic lifestyle, they are not poor.

Dawa, the 15 year old daughter and her cousin Thuria.

They choose to live this way. Periodically, they move back and forth between camps. As we departed, we left them some of the large mangos we had been given by an elderly man at the Rest House. They seemed pleased with the gift.

Back on the highway, we pulled off again when we spotted a good sized watering hole crowded with camels, goats and sheep. It was quite a sight. I wonder if some of those animals belong to Madina’s family.

While driving, we chatted about a variety of topics. Mark learned that 72% of the population is literate (81% men and 63% women) and the average number of years spent in school is 4. Education is not free to anyone, but the public schools are not very expensive. Unfortunately, they are not very good either. Abdel sends his three girls to private schools.

Weddings are a very expensive 4-day affair in Sudan. There may be as many as 1000 guests at an average wedding. The ceremony and attendant parties are paid for by both sets of parents. The bride’s parents also buy the furnishings for whatever dwelling the couple will inhabit and the groom provides the dwelling. With 3 daughters, Abdel will have to make a lot of money.

Saudi Arabia and Sudan are the only two countries that have Sharia Law. Most Arab countries have a mix of Sharia and civil Law. In Saudi Arabia the Law is is very strictly enforced, which is why Abdel believes the US should not be friendly with that country. Sudan did not have Sharia Law until Bashir instituted it in the 90’s. The Sudanese are more liberal in their application of the law as it is not compatible with their culture, according to Abdel. He believes Bashir does not enforce it more severely because of the attitude of the people and International pressure. Still, under Sharia Law, women are repressed. They have no freedom or human rights.

The Meroe Pyramids.

The time flew by and we were soon in Meroe, driving through the sand to the major pyramid site in Sudan. The late afternoon light was just about perfect so we jumped out of the car and walked up a gentle sand hill to the pyramids, snapping away. These are the typical 30 meter, 72 degree Kushite style we saw in Jebel Barkal only younger. There are 2 sites fairly close together. The north, which we were looking at, contains about 60 pyramids dating from 400BC to 400AD and the south, which contains 6 that are still standing from 800BC. There are about 100 in Meroe and 130 total in Sudan. The smaller size allowed the pyramids to be constructed quicker and easier than the ones in Egypt. Another difference from Egyptian tombs where the deceased is placed inside the pyramid, is that tomb chambers were dug directly into the rock below with the pyramid erected above.

Once the king was buried, the entrance, which was a distance away from the pyramid, was covered up and hidden. There was a prayer chapel attached to the outside of each pyramid. Sadly, every pyramid was decapitated in 1834 by an Italian gold seeker named Ferlini. Preservation of antiquities was not yet important. Anyway, it was a lovely sight in the fading light.  A few of the pyramids were reconstructed to look as they might have when new.

About a mile away on another hill was our outdoor home for the night, the Italian operated Meroe Tented Camp. As it is off season and the place is closed to guests, we were permitted to sleep outdoors on the veranda under the stars and to use a bathroom facility complete with coolish running water. Yeah! Although not quite as hot or humid as the days before, the air was still a hot breeze and we were sticky and sweaty. The shower felt great even though we had no room to cool off and got sticky again. We were fed a very nice dinner on the terrace by the Italian chef in residence. Hopefully the staff enjoyed the copious left overs. By then it was dark with no moon so we laid on top of our beds with no covers in hopes of cooling off and getting some sleep. Eventually, we drifted off with the breeze slowly cooling down. At least it kept any possible bugs away. Although we were both up several times during the night, we did get some sleep. I enjoyed the stars and the long lightening show in the south. It was so far away we could not hear any thunder. Sometime during the night I pulled a sheet over me and eventually the blanket. By 5am, it was warm already and time to get up to catch my camel ride to the pyramids to be there for sunrise. Mark road in the car. He says he’s been there, done that. I say any opportunity to ride a camel is a good one. I keep trying to improve my riding skills. Am not learning very fast.

August 6, 2016

The camel ride was pleasant but and sunrise was unimpressive. The sand is so fine it is like talcum powder and golden and is easily blown into waves. So pretty. I hate to disturb the patterns.

Breakfast was served on the veranda in the shade looking out at the vast desert. These are moments in places we have visited in Africa I treasure. The breeze has not stopped since we arrived at the camp. It is like being in our room at the Rest House with two fans running full blast. It helps keep us less sweaty, but we are still sticky and take showers again before loading up. We managed our night of camping pretty well. Would have enjoyed a second night if not for the heat.

Back on the road headed for Khartoum, we experienced much heavier traffic on the tired main highway where many double 18-wheelers travel to and from Port Sudan in the northeast. The Sudanese version of truck stops are frequent and we stopped at one for coffee and tea. I got some snaps of friendly travelers having coffee too. We have not yet had one unpleasant experience with Sudanese people.

Finally, we made it back to the Corinthia Hotel with a cool, sand free room with a great view of both Nile rivers and functioning internet and WiFi. Am able to send blogs and deal with email. We have about 2.5 hours to work and rest before heading out to see the Sudanese version of Sufi Whirling Dervishes.