Adventures with Julia

October 14, 2017

Two days ago, October 12, 2017, we had a lovely boat ride from the Port of Dubrovnik out to the 3 Elaphiti Islands very near the city.  The boat was slightly larger than our boat at home.

Perfect for us, the captain and our friendly and fun guide for the day, Ana.

The weather was sunny and warm with a cool breeze when we were moving fast.  But first we passed slowly by 4 cruise ships in port and then rounded the corner under the Dr Frano Tudman Bridge and into the Bay of Dubrovnik.

There were many old summer houses and a Catholic Church along the banks.  Our purpose was to see the shortest river in the world, the River of Dubrovnik.

At “no wake” speed it was a pleasant ride with Ana talking about Croatia, the cost of property ($4000 EU per sq meter in Dubrovnik), salaries (5500 kuna (6.35:$1) per month average), income tax (20%  plus 25% VAT tax), and the Croatian flag to mention a few.

The captain turned us around and slowly we motored back under the Tudman Bridge.  Dr Tudman was the first president of Croatia from 1991 to 1999, when he died while in office.  He was very popular at the time and got a lovely bridge named after him.

 

We speeded up to reach the islands and in 20 minutes arrived at Kalamota Island, which has a settlement of 170 people and no roads.

Our stop was at a couple of cave-like coves into which our boat could just enter and slowly negotiate a turn to get out.  The water was very clear and turquoise and would have been perfect for swimming, but the temp of the water was 69F and the air was only a few degrees warmer.

 

Next stop was Lopud Island, which has 250 residents and no roads.  It had a small village where we stopped and visited a 15^th century summer villa built and occupied by the Skocibuha Family for several centuries.

It is now occupied by the 5^th family to own the 2,500 square meter property.

The gardens and a portion of the house are open to visitors as a museum.  The property docent  first showed us the salon and gave us cherry brandy to taste and sugar-coated donut holes to munch.   We then were shown the kitchen, living room, a bedroom, the chapel and the grounds.

 

 

 

 

 

Most interesting was the living room balcony where musicians sat and played while being hidden from the guests below.  Interesting concept that seems to put the musicians in a class below the guests.

The tiles on the floor are actually 12″ cubes.  No wonder the place has lasted for so many centuries.  The original family, like all nobles of the day, had a live-in priest, who ministered to the whole family.

When the husband was gone to war or sea, often for years at a time, the lady of the house ocassionally got it on with the priest and may even have had extra children by the time the husband returned.  The accepted excuse was that sharing a toilet with the priest somehow got the lady pregnant.  So, a second toilet might be provided to prevent the possibility.

 

The last island we visited was Sipan, with 2 settlements, 450 inhabitants and a 5km road between the villages.  Here we stopped at a small port with a sandy beach, a boardwalk and a delightful restaurant Ana had chosen.  We had fish soup, seafood risotto and Greek salad.  I enjoyed getting my feet wet in the sand along the beach, but was still content not to go swimming.

 

By 3pm, the captain had us back at Dubrovnik and soon we said good bye to Ana and were relaxing in our hotel, something of which we do not seem to get enough.

 

For dinner, we walked to a place Ana suggested that served 16^th century dished the chef had learned about.  We got lost getting there, but finally found the place after asking waiters in three different restaurants.  The place is called Kupon and is at the top of the Jesuit Stairs, which we somehow missed.  I had capon prepared 16^th century style with bites of chicken and gnocchi in a sweet sauce of blended fruits and spices.  Sounds better than it was.  Mark had scampi served with the heads and claws attached.  Again, we left the restaurant mildly dissatisfied and wondering why we could not find a meal to our liking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After spending 4 pleasurable nights in the Excelsior Hotel in Dubrovnik, listening to the Sea lap at the breakwater in front of our room, it was time to move on.

So, the next morning, October 13, 2017, we met our next driver, Niksha, and headed North.  First, we crossed the Tadman Bridge one last time and passed through the 12 kilometers of Bosnia along the coast road again.

When we reached the turn to Medjugorya, we stayed left and followed the coast to Ston. Niksha reminded us that Ston was the salt producing mecca of Croatia during the 13-17^th centuries, and a major source of trade.  There are large defensive walls protecting the salt flatss that were financed by Dubrovnik in earlier centuries to protect their investment.  Now there are 5.5 kilometers of defensive walls remaining and they are in the process of being restored.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just beyond the salt flats, we came to the backwater bay where oysters and mussels are being cultivated.

Dennis Drazeda, one of 3 brothers who will eventually inherit the farm we were about to visit, was at the dock to meet us and take us across a small bay, called Mali Ston, with oyster beds to an island his family leases from the government along with 25,000 square meters of oyster and mussel beds.

The family’s current lease is good until 2035 and is one of only 55 oyster leases permitted by the government.  The family considers this lease a very valuable asset they hope to keep renewing within the family.

Dennis showed us the different stages of development from samples of nylon strands with oysters attached, that he had ready to show us.

He was quite prepared as he directed us to a picnic table, brought us cherry brandy, homemade wine and bread and left us to shuck some oysters and cook a pot of mussels.  I watched him cook, while he acknowledged that the tourist business brings in as much as oyster and mussel sales. He operates the tours and his brothers run the farm.  I  was really sad that I could not try the oysters, as I have been allergic to them for many years.   They could not have been fresher and Mark really enjoyed his.  We all loved the mussels and ate a huge pot between the three of us.  With nothing left to eat, Dennis took us back to the dock to wait for his next group.

He has two more groups of 2 and 20 just this day alone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Niksha drove on to the ferry terminal, where we waited half an hour for the next ferry.  Niksha was pleased that we had no problem getting a place in line.  As it turned out, the last 6 cars in line did not get on.  The ferry was packed.  I bet there were more than the allotted 30 cars.  Anyway, everyone on it was glad to have made it.

 

 

 

The ride took only half an hour.  On the far east end of Hvar island, we rolled off the ferry with 78 kilometers to drive to get to Hvar.

 

The road was very narrow and curvy and it took us 1.5 hours to make the trip.  If it was high season, Niksha said, the drive time would be 3 hours.  The scenery was mostly rock, some olive trees and grape vines and more rock.  It reminded me of Israel, Italy and Greece.  All these countries are very rocky too.  The terrain was gentle rolling with a few larger hills, lots of scrub, cactus and here and there an attempt at a small garden,  I was not inspired to take a single photo.  It all looked very dull and uninteresting.  Thankfully, Hvar is a whole different matter.

At Hvar, Niksha left us at the entrance to the pedestrian walkway.  A hotel porter met us and took our bags. It was a pleasant 300-yard walk to our hotel, the Adriana, which fronted on the small harbor and the town square.

A delightful setting.  We were pleased to have a view room with a patio of our own and hoped we would have time to use it.  None of the restaurants that had been recommended by friends were open.  All had closed for the season.  We were left with the hotel’s suggestions and had very nice sea bass at a place called Dalmatino.   The weather is perfect, unless you want to swim in the Adriatic.  Fortunately for us, that is not a priority.