Adventures with Julia

September 28, 2018

A view from Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge

A View from Clouds

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge is a wonderful place.  At 7,000 feet, it is cool, dry and mostly bug free.  We slept well with the windows open and no mosquito nets.

Mark’s and my villa at Clouds

The whole group expressed appreciation for the spacious accommodations, the lovely views, the delicious food and the tranquility.

Two chameleons climbing on my head. It feels prickly, but does not hurt

One of my favorite treats at Clouds are the chameleons.  When I asked John Bosco if there were any around, he went and found two for me and brought them to me in the living room. As they crawled around on me, the group became fascinated and wanted to experience them too.

The locals welcoming us with singing and dancing

Local ladies really get into motion

However, the main event while at Clouds was the mudding of a house in the nearby Batwa village of Nteko.  Even Scott drove to Clouds to visit Nteko and get in om the mudding.  Everyone put on old clothes brought for the occasion and off we went after breakfast even though we were a little stiff and sore from the arduous hike.  The drive to Nteko took only 20 minutes.  Once there we climbed a short hill to the new house site and met the family who will receive it.  We laughed when we learned that the house was being built for the second wife of the village chief.  Apparently, that was the collective vote of the villagers.

Mark and Larry considering the mudding task ahead

Mudding is a fun experience for muzungos who can quit when they have had enough.  This time was no exception.  The house had already been framed with willow branches and roofed with corrugated metal.

Mixing the dirt with water to make…..MUD.

Several villagers were busy making mud and soon we were all busy putting mounds of mud into the cavity between the inside and outside of the willow framework.  A mudded wall is 4-5 inches thick.  The whole framework should be covered when the mudding is finished.

We started stuffing in mud at the bottom and work up until we could not reach any higher.  As we worked and chatted with the locals, small children carried piles of mud to us to speed the process.  As simple as it is, it is tiring work.  The 12-foot square structure is divided into 3 interior spaces with one exterior doorway and a couple of window openings.  When properly built, a second mudding will be done after the first mudding is dry.  Finely, a third slurry coat will be added for protection from the rain.  With all of us working diligently, we succeeded in mudding about a third of the building in 2 hours.  At that point, the project lost its appeal and the group quit.  If I had pushed them to work more, there would have been mutiny.  We muzungos cleaned the mud off our hands and said good bye to the people who will have to finish the job.  I was told the house will take a day and a half to finish the first mudding.

Back to the lodge we went, cleaned up and had lunch.  With the rest of the day at leisure, some went into the village  next to the lodge to shop, others to visit the school and others to rest.  Al took the drum Scott had purchased for him to the local school.  After demonstrating his drumming skills, he gave the school the drum and then learned why the kids and teachers were so thrilled by his offering.  Apparently, they had a drum similar to the one Al brought, but it has a big hole in it and does not sound good.  This drum is a God send for the school.  Way to go, Al.

Hanging out in Clouds’ living room

All afternoon there were light showers that did not seem to bother anyone.  At 7pm we gathered for cocktails and farewell comments from both Jean and Scott, as they would be driving back to Bwindi in the morning, while the rest of us went on to Kigali, Rwanda.  Warm feelings and comments were shared all around.  I received many compliments and felt both gratified and humbled.  It has been a stressful, yet joyfilled experience for me.

Dinner that evening was so well enjoyed that the chef received a standing ovation.  Have never seen that happen before.  Then off to bed we went.  The air was cool enough for some in the group to light fires in their private fireplaces and snuggle with the hot water bottles in their beds.  Mark and I were too warm for any of that and slept with the windows wide open.

September 28, 2018

Our group said their last goodbye’s to Scott and Jean and drove away from Clouds at 9am.  As we passed Scott’s car we noticed it had a flat tire.  We hoped he had a spare.  He and Jean were due to leave later.

A mountain scene along the road to Cyanika

The dirt drive from Clouds to the Ugandan border town of Cyanika is quite beautiful and sometimes referred to as the Swiss Alps of Africa.

A large fertile valley along the way to Cyanika.

The SW corner of Uganda is very mountainous with deep fertile valleys, cultivated hillsides, small villages and lovely mountain lakes.  The prettiest lake seen on the drive is Lake Mulehe.

Lake Mulehe on road to Cyanika

It would be a great lake for boating and skiing.  However, it is used only by locals for fishing.

A man working in a sand quarry along the road to Cyanika. Hard work. Interesting rock.

Gradually we descended to the valley floor and reached the Ugandan border town of Cyanika about noon.  Just before reaching Kisoro, a valley town near the border, the dirt was replaced with asphalt and we had smooth tarmac the rest of the way to Kigali.  I must admit, that felt good.  Not only was the ride less bouncy, it was quieter.

The customs office at the border

At the border, we were the only people in line, so the process went smoothly and reasonably quickly.  Within an hour we were in Rwanda and back on the road.

KK and Mike with the Land Cruisers at the Rwanda border.

Shortly after entering Rwanda, one of our Land Cruisers, got a flat tire.  While our drivers changed it, we decided to eat the lunches Clouds had prepared for us rather than stop somewhere else.  Back on the road for about 200 feet, the replacement spare tire went flat.  Now we had two flat tires and only 2 more spares. While we waited, we drew a crowd of onlookers.  Mark got friendly with one of the teenage kids and borrowed his bicycle for a short ride. Everyone laughed about that.  By the time the second tire was changed, we had all finished eating.  I hoped there would be no more incidents.  There were none.

Rwanda is much more urban and advanced than Uganda.  The government has worked hard to promote forgiveness, peace and prosperity for all.  There are no more Hutus and Tutsis, only Rwandans.  Two years ago when Mark and I visited Rwanda, we noticed the difference. Now there is even more activity, business and energy.  Our driver, Mike, told us the population of Rwanda is now 13 million and the population of Kigali is 4.5 million.  There are many more stores and buildings, even 3-stories and more, along the roadside. People certainly appear to be on the go. We arrived at the Serena Hotel in Kigali about 4:30. It had been another long drive, but the last one on this trip.

The group was on their own for dinner in Kigali.  However, Mark and I recommended they dine at a place called “Heaven” and 6 of them went together.  Later They said they really enjoyed the food, although the service was slow.  Welcome to Africa.

Meanwhile, Mark and I were picked up by Emmanuel and driven to his rented home in an upscale, gated suburb.  We met Lauren, his 6-month pregnant wife and went to dinner at a place they suggested called Pourve Noir, (Black Pepper) the food and service were both good.   The conversation was delightful.  When we first met Emmanuel in 2016, he was not yet married.  This was our first time to meet his new wife, an American from Westport, Connecticut.  Over dinner we learned all about Lauren’s new business of marketing fruits and vegetables to commercial establishments like restaurants and hotels.  She started with $5,000 three years ago and now has 70 employees, 5 delivery vehicles and is starting to market internationally to places like South Africa.  She was so enthusiastic, we did not get much conversation with Emmanuel.  Her parents like Rwanda so much, they have moved here permanently too.  Her mother works in the business with her and her father runs an online company selling hiking tours in Europe.  Rwanda is such a happening place to do business, Lauren made us almost want to move to Rwanda too.

Emmanuel did suggest we meet him right after lunch on the 30^thso he could show us some land he owns.  We asked if we were needed to prepare for the gallery reception and he said no.  His personal chef has taken care of the details.  How nice is that?!   They dropped us off at the Serena Hotel and we were soon fast asleep.

September 30, 2018

Mark and I saw the group off to the Genocide Museum at 9am and then relaxed in our room until lunch time.  Mike picked us up and took us to the lunch place Lauren recommended called Inka Stakehouse.

KK, Mark, Lynne, Al and Julia at Inka Restaurant for our last lunch in Kigali

You can tell I am getting to the end of this adventure.   The service was very slow and the food just ok.  Definitely not a memorable place.   While KK and Mike broke the group into shoppers and sight see’ers and headed in different directions.

Emmanuel’s land for his eventual home

Emmanuel and his brother Kenneth, took Mark and me to see his land.  Although the property is undeveloped and totally in the country, it is only 30 minutes from down town.  It is currently 10 acres of dirt on a hill with a stunning view of the city.  He plans to build his home on it, with attendant outbuildings as well.  He got the property for a good price and is already being offered much more for it. He may opt to sell rather than build. That would be too bad says she who sold the ranch because it was a good price.

One of Innocent’s pieces

We arrived at Inema Arts Center just behind the group.  Emmanuel and his five brothers own and operate the business and make their art here.  They are all artistically creative.  For this event, they had made the place spotless and were all present and dressed to great our group.  I was very impressed.  The current art was well displayed and everyone enjoyed seeing the work.  One couple bought a piece and several people bought smaller items.  Mark bought a colorful bow tie.   Soon we were given special drinks in different flavors that were exciting to the palate.  I could see food being prepared and the table set for a meal, which I was not expecting. Then we heard drum music and were drawn outdoors to watch a troupe of young dancers perform in the parking lot of the Center.

Emmanuel told us they were local kids that he and his brothers sponsor in school and in the arts.  It is a great opportunity for the students, and the brothers get to help less fortunate people. The food prepared by Emmanuel’s chef was delicious and everyone decided to sit down, eat hardy and call it dinner.

Dinner being served at Emmanuel’s reception for our group.  Mark, Amy, the chef, the chef’s assistant and Al.

That was easy.  We finished our meal, and, after many photos of everyone, said our farewells to Emmanuel and his brothers and got back to the hotel by 6pm.

Emmanuel, his brothers and our group.  KK, Larry, Marlene, Mike, Amy, Lynne, Kenneth, Mike the driver, Mark, Julia, Emmanuel, Mimi, Phil, Innocent( tall in back) and another brother.  On their knees are Al and 2 others of Emmanuel’s family.

KK and Mike, our superior driver/guides and Innocence, the Rwanda expert.

To do something of a farewell nature, we all went to the hotel restaurant and ordered dessert.  We chatted over ice cream Sundays and other goodies and finally, Mark and I said good bye. We were the first ones to depart Rwanda. Our flight was at 0130 the next morning. We needed to head for the airport at 11pm.  Interestingly enough, the brakes in KK’s vehicle gave out on the way to the airport. He managed to stop the vehicle and call Mike to come and get us, which he did.  Days later I learned that the brakes and bad tires were repaired in Kigali and the guys made it home safely.

Good bye, good bye, good bye!

Now Mark and I will turn our attention to the Seychelles and some serious down time.

Hello, Hello, Hello!