June 16, 2019
Mark listens to the docents introduce us to the museum
After the late night party, we were all slow getting going in the morning. It was 10:30 before we were in the van and headed to the Museum of African Contemporary Art. It was no ordinary museum. It was not large, but it was spectacular in its content and purpose. Even Mark hung around to learn the meaning of each piece. Here is a sampling of the art we experienced.
Acrylic on canvas,” Eyram, Yellow is the Color of Water”, Jeremiah Quarshie (Ghana)2015.About women’s need for water and the difficulties of carrying it. This is the only painted image in the exhibition.
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- Two canvases using motor oil. The first gives an image of dark sea and sky.
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- The second is a canvas soaking up motor oil from a basin and the effect it has on the fabric. I did not get the name of the artist, sorry to say.
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- A rose made from thousands of yards of stretched brass wire. Again I did not get the name, but the description is very philosophical and worth reading.
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- The description accompanying the brass rose.
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- Description for Cages, awakening”
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- “Cages, Awakening”, Hassan Bourke, 2018. Time that no longer resembles time. travelers become migrants, did not start that way. See thoughtful artist’s description.
First of all, there was only one piece that was painted, a western mode of art not culturally African. The rest of the collection was made up of artifacts found in the local culture and turned into eclectic, meaningful and artful works that required thought to understand the intent. I am including several pieces so you can get a sense of the place for yourself. Nezha had arranged for us to have the museum to ourselves. The two head docents shared their knowledge and insights with us at each piece. That alone made the tour a special experience.
A concrete and steel sculpture that reads, in Arabic, “Liberty.” However, the word is in concrete nailed to the wall with a steel plate over the middle of it. The message is that Liberty has not become free. I found this piece very visceral.
Large-scale sculpture of fake acrylic nails by Frances Goodman. Subtle subversion of stereotypes that continue to surround women and their interest in the surface presentation of self. I found the image both appealing and intense.
Found objects like used toothbrushes and discarded soap dispenser caps make this an interesting commentary on how people use and discard things.
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- “One Thousand Voices”, is a multimedia installation by Owanto that addresses Female Genital Mutilation. This exhibit highlights gender inequality and the politics surrounding a woman’s body. Over 200 million women have been mutilated. The enlightened words in “What happened, Happened, Happened offer an alternative way out from the shadows.
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- The collective sound of One Thousand voices, reports on the magnitude of the practice and questions where women are heading globally, is heard alongside a room full of embroidered words by South Senegalese women who are reformed-cutters asking forgiveness. This is a very intense, yet artful, exhibit in the museum.
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- “Le Salon”by Hassan Hajjaj (Morocco) 2019. Witty and playful with a serious edge. The Salon is inspired by traditional front-room living spaces in Morocco. The visitor is welcome to use the art as furniture in the space, while blurring the cultural frontiers.
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- A Pop Art table in “Le Salon.”
For me, the artists presented, collectively, a feeling of HOPE. They are not looking to the past, but working to effect change, positive change now, for the future. I think everyone in our group came away feeling moved.
Around the corner from the museum is the golf course, where lunch was waiting.
Then we were off to lunch at the nearby golf course. It was a pretty setting and a super salad came without us having to order. It was perfect for everyone at our table and we thought we were done, when a beef and chicken tagine arrived. Suddenly, it was way too much food, even if it was tasty. I stopped.
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- After lunch we visited the Medina for an hour. Mark and I took the opportunity to remember our last visit to the square.
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- The snake charmers were just as irascible as they were many years ago and the snakes just as lethargic.
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- This friendly vender sold me some scarves. He has been working in this shop for 34 years and says it is not very profitable.
We all agreed to a short visit to the medina to spend some money. Mark and I wandered around reminiscing about our last visit here 25+ years ago. Nothing seemed to have changed. Crowded and noisy. Shopkeepers all peddling the same goods, sellers dogging us while lowering their price as we kept walking, irascible snake charmers and sluggish snakes. We found a pleasant shopkeeper and settled in to buy some scarves. We had a nice visit and learned he had been in that spot for 34 years and business was always just OK. Now there are more people, but more vendors too.
Feeling hot for the first time on this trip, we walked back to where we were to meet the van and were happy to sit down in the air conditioned vehicle. Nearly everyone had made a purchase and we had a show and tell on the way back to Janen Mayshad.
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- The concert party begins in the garden
We had a couple of hours to clean up and rest before the 8pm concert. Other guests had been invited too, so by 7:30 the garden was filling with folks all dressed up. At 8pm, Joel Revzen and Susan Graham made their appearance and we all took seats in the living room in front of the borrowed Steinway.
Susan Graham sings for the delighted audience.
While Joel played, Susan sang selections from Summer Nights by Hector Berlioz and Women’s Life and Love by Robert Schumann.
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- One side of the traditional living room held half the 50 attentive guests.
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- Nezha and her daughters, Shadeen and Maysoon, enjoy the concert.
The music and singing were delightful and received a standing ovation. By 9:30 everyone was in the garden drinking wine and eating small dishes of food delivered one course at a time. Mark and I said good night about 11:30, but the party carried on until 4am for some folks. Fortunately for us, the revelers relocated to the pool area and all was quiet outside our window.
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- Susan Graham and her family relaxing after the concert.
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- Mark and I head to bed as the festivities continue.Mark and I head to bed as the festivities continue.
Adventures with Julia 
Comments
Well, I must say that I miss you guys and am enjoying the read!
Hi Brad, What a treat hearing from you. How is your family, especially your mother-in-law? You could not visit us because of her condition. Hope she is well now. Is there still a chance you will visit us in California. You are certainly still invited. Meanwhile, where have you been guiding in Africa? We sure miss our experiences there. However, this year we are off to the east – China,Pakistan and India. Please do stay in touch. Keep the blog comments coming.
Hugs and happy times,
Julia
What lovely experiences. So much expression of creativity and wonder. Enjoy!
Wonderful experience. African contemporary art is a far cry from the more conventional tribal art. The concert must have been really special. What a finale !
Thanks for your comments Bob. We had a delightful week with a group of very interesting people. The program for helping women goes beyond getting an education and really sets women up to become leaders. It is a great opportunity for women. Meanwhile, we are also interested in the basic education, which is essential for most girls in any country. We support education for girls in Uganda through the Kellermann Foundation and in Pakistan through the Central Asia Institute, which is why we are going there later this year. What can you tell me about the Rotary program?
Am curious about your “mixed emotions” regarding Casablanca. Do tell.
Julia