Adventures with Julia

July 5, 2024

Already this morning we have learned that Lima is the second largest city built on a desert after Cairo. Pre colonial civilizations began to build water canals 2,000 years ago. that are still being used today. The population of Lima is 12 million. After a light breakfast we walked along the nearby promenade overlooking the ocean. It is winter here and the temperature is quite chilly. I am not prepared for cool weather. I sure hope it warms up soon. We walked through an outdoor shopping arcade and I bought a sweater that should help keep me warmer. Along the walk we visited and admired a small church called Our Lady of Fatima.

Had a delicious lunch of ceviche and salad in a restaurant called Huaca Pucllana. (The ceviche was so delicious I noted the ingredients: octopus, shrimp, yellow potatoes, seaweed and hominy in a spicy lime juice sauce.) It was next to an archeological site of the same name and, after lunch, we toured the site with our guide, Sophia. The place, considered sacred, looked like dirt hills as late as 1981. By 1994, it had been designated and confined. By 2012 it had been excavated to look like what we see today. Sophi explained how the bricks were made hollow to be earthquake resistant and had stood for centuries after construction between 450 – 650 AD during the height of what we now know as Lima culture (200- 750 AD). The use of the site remains unclear. In later centuries the top of the construction was used by different cultures as a burial place. Water channel systems for irrigation made it possible to increase agricultural production in the area. Fishing was pursued both inshore and out to sea. The most sought after catch being sharks.

The mud brick hillside with actual remains, including a plastering effect and yellow paint, as well as reconstructed areas. People were buried in a fetal portion sitting up. The smooth ground has yet to be uncovered.

After the cool morning, the day warmed up and became sunny with a slight breeze. I was comfortable in a light sweater. There was no measurable humidity. A perfect weather day.

From the archeological site, our driver, who had waited for us, took us to the District called Barranca. It is one of 43 in Lima, fairly small and very bohemian, with all classes of people living in a very charming space. Art is everywhere. Murals, music, textiles and art in and out of galleries. The mural is of a woman named Chabuca Granda. She was a locally famous singer and composer. Two of her well known songs are Jose Antonio and Flour de la Camilla. Sophia suggested we and you, look her up and listen to her songs. If you do, let us know what you think about them.

The cartoon character in the yellow dress is Mafalda. She was created by an Argentinian artist named Quino. She is famous throughout Latin America as a talkative child who sends funny but pointed double messages.

After walking around Barranca for an hour or so, we went back to the hotel. I blogged, while Mark learned about making Pico Sours from the bartenders in the ground floor lounge. At 6;30 our driver, Carlos, drove us to a restaurant on the beach, called Cala. The beaches in the area are all pebble rather than sand and they make for a lovely noisy sound. We had a delicious rockfish dinner listening to the waves crashing very nearby. Later, back at the hotel, we stopped in the bar to have another visit with the friendly bartenders. Mark had another spicy passion fruit Pisco Sour and I had a hot tea and a test of his drink. We were off to bed by 9pm. It had been a very nice day in Lima.