Daily Archives: July 16, 2024

A story about the women of Lima

This story accidentally missed the last post and I don’t want you to miss learning about the tapada limena. So here is one final post about Lima.

Tapada Limena was the denomination used at the time of the Viceroyalty of Peru and the first years of the Republic to designate the women in Lima, aka Liman women, who covered their heads and faces with comfortable silk fabrics, revealing just one eye. Its use began around 1560 with particular clothing and cloaks worn by the tapade limena and spread for 3 centuries until well into the 19th century when it was relegated by French fashions. In 1583 the Archbishop of Lima pronounced a rejection of the custom of wearing the clothing by women in the capital and ordered a fine. The fear of this custom, already widespread among Liman women, generated much misunderstanding and confusion and made the authorities suspect transvestism was taking place in the Viceroyalty. Official testimonials and ordinances could not dissuade the Limen women.

The characteristic attire of the tapada “connoted insinuation, coquetry, prohibition and seduction games”, although it was still a dress. The gown outlined the hips, and the cloak covered the head and face, except a single eye. It was a symbol of the freedom for Liman women. The symbol was used to distinguish themselves from women of other classes and races. Behind the cloak could live a toothless grandmother as well as a one-eyed woman covered in smallpox. The possibilities were many and boys and old men could take advantage of the situation too.

The skirt was large, long and silk, colored blue, green, brown or black and of a wide range of quality. A belt was used to secure the skirt and false hips were sometimes added to enhance one’s endowments. Underneath the skirt, the feet were shod with embroidered satin shoes, adding to the fame of the colonial Lima women. The cloak was also made of silk, tied at the waist and up the back to cover the head and face. Its simplicity allowed the wearer to retain anonymity.

The tapadas Limenas were an icon in ancient Lima, an original presence that did not exist in any other city in Hispanic America. T he insinuating game, the symbol of secrecy of an incipient female freedom, caught the attention of passing visitors who wrote books, plays, songs and dances about them. After 3 hundred years, the custom finally fell out of favor with–of course–the Liman.

The lady above was standing near the Cathedral of Lima.

We are home now and back in reentry mode. Laundry and mail underway. Blessing to all of you and a happy summer. Julia and Mark

Last of Lima; heading for home

Tuesday, July 16, 2024

Had a leisurely morning at the Hotel B. Wandered around looking at the art, which I found curious, if uninspiring. The lower left image is our room. It was tall, but small. The lower right image is the breakfast room, as seen from the second floor level.

Sophia picked us up at 10am and off we went, with Carlos driving, to stop at the Post Office in Miraflores to buy stamps and then to see the old city center. It took more than an hour to get in the vicinity due to intense congestion on the many narrow 2 lane roads. However, the journey was worth the trouble as the buildings were wonderful 16th century wooden construction. Even the Cathedral of Lima was entirely made of cedar. Sophia told us the reason the towers are so short, for a cathedral, is because of frequent earthquakes. The ceiling was very pretty and many of the side alters were made of beautiful hand carved wood–some cedar and some mahogany.

As we walked around the square and several old pedestrian streets. Sophia pointed out the oldest structure in Lima, a rather plain building built in the 1500’s. The wood structure was covered with stucco.

The oldest building in Lima. Built in the 1500’s

Sophia took us to see a Dominican Mission near the cathedral. The mission library houses over 20,000 books. Somehow the books seem to survive the climate.

The mission was covered in beautiful tiles from the 1600’s. Here is a small sample.

From the mission we entered a private home belonging to the Aliaga family for 18 generations. The original owner was a personal friend of Pizarro, who gave him the land in the 1500’s. The property occupies a full block near the Cathedral. Currently about half of the house is open to the public by private invitation.

By the time we had finished the 4 hour tour we were hungry and went to a Japanese restaurant called Osaka in Miraflores. It was a most unusual combination of sushi dishes our waiter arranged for us. A couple of nigiri were even charred with a hand held torch. Unfortunately, I was too busy enjoying the presentations that I remembered only to take this one photo.

Back at the Hotel B, we relaxed until it was time to check out of the room at 8pm, get a bite to eat in the hotel dining room and head to the airport. This trip is done. More another time.