Monthly Archives: October 2025

Cristalino Lodge in the Southern Amazon

Thursday, October 23, 2025

Our King Air flight lasted 3 hours and dropped us in Alta Floresta.

From there we were driven about 40 minutes through huge soybean fields, that had recently been planted, to a large river, Teles Pires, where a small boat picked us up and took us another 10 minutes upstream to the Cristalino River and up it 30 more minutes to the Cristalino Lodge. By 3pm we were in our new, and cool, accommodations at the lodge.

To find our location, go to the map on the first post of this trip and find “CACHIMBO” south and slightly east of Manaus, in about the middle of the map. Our lodge is very near there.

After a quick snack, our new guide, Priscilla, suggested a boat ride upstream into the jungle. We were very hot and a boat ride in the breeze felt good. Soon we were looking for birds and other animals. We had not managed to see a tapir, the last of Brazil’s big five, in the Pantanal and were pleased when Priscilla pointed one out to us along the river bank. The other four, by the way, were the jaguar, giant anteater, marsh deer and the capybara.

In addition to the tapir, we saw several birds we could not see close enough to photograph, but managed to capture a pair of Muscovy ducks

Muscovy ducks

and a pair of neotropical otters munching on a fish.

A pair of otters eating a fish

It was dark by the time we returned to the lodge. We were ready for cocktails and dinner after long cool showers. No more buffets at this lodge, thankfully. We happily enjoyed smoked trout risotto and went directly to our cool room and bed. Between the heat and bug bites, I was glad to be cool and bug free for awhile.

Our cocktails. My passion fruit drink was served with a pasta straw.

Friday. October 24, 2025

Here is what at we have learned about this lodge and why our travel agent recommended it. It is in the middle of the largest tropical forest in the world and, as one of the best eco-lodges, according to the National Geogrphic, it boasts harmonious architecture in wood, creating sustainable settings integrated with their surroundings. The 4,400 square mile property owned by a conservation minded family reserves this rich biome with a rare diversity of birds, mammals and plants. Our room certainly fits the description as does the dining and common areas. There is no pool, but the nearby river has a pleasant floating deck for sunbathing and swimming.

Floating in the Cristalino River

Our first activity was a 2 mile walk through the forest with Priscilla. We started at 7am and walked until 9:30, by which time we were both very hot and sweaty.

The dead tree fosters new growth.

We saw a few brown, Guinean capuchin monkeys, a couple of mushrooms, a caterpillar and a moth and identified some plants. There is even a bamboo forest within the forest. Priscilla told us the birds and most animals live in the tops of the trees and not in the dense understory. This was enough forest hiking for us. Apparently we are in between wet and dry bird seasons during which there are few birds to see. Bummer for us. However, we were grateful to jump into the river and cool off.

In the late afternoon we went for another boat ride and found a few more birds to prove there were some. Unfortunately the focus is not what we would like.

At dinner time we stepped out of our cottage and found two capybara munching on the plants in our yard. Fun to see them.

At the lodge, we attended a presentation about the lodge property as well as the Brazilian amazon in general. Alta Floresta and environs were developed during the 60s and 70s when coffee was the product. In the 80s gold was discovered and the population soared to 100,000+. When the gold market collapsed, agriculture took over and continues today. Soybeans and corn are the main crops that are rotated each year as no irrigation is needed. Sadly, the forest continues to be cut down for agriculture.

Saturday, October 25, 2025

Up at 5am and on the boat at 6, crossing the river to a 20 minute walk to an observation tower. Although it was 168 feet tall, it was sufficiently enclosed with a banister on one side and cage wire on the other that I was not afraid. Our guide gave us gloves to wear and that helped protect our hands on the climb, which took about 15 minutes.

At the top, we were above the tallest trees and able to see the forest all around us. However, just as on the ground, there were few birds flying about. The best we saw was a pair of scarlet macaw passing by. No chance to take a photo. We sat at the top for about 45 minutes enjoying the view, before descending.

Back on the boat, we cooled off while motoring up river until we saw a tapir that Priscilla was hoping to find. Got some nice photos of it, then headed slowly back to the home dock.

Sunday,October 26, 2025

Yesterday we boated across the river spotting a large caiman and more bats and then hiked through the forest for half a mile to a huge Brazil Nut tree.

It was similar in size to our large redwood trees. Later we took photos of the huge nuts that fall from the tree and took photos of one and the nuts inside, which are also hard to open.

Sunday morning, Priscilla and I kayaked down river a few miles before being picked up by the boat for the return trip to the floating dock. Time to pack and move on. We depart at noon by boat, car, plane and car to São Paulo.

The Pantanal, Brazil’s wetland

Sunday, October 19, 2025

A colorful iguana outside our door bid us adieu and off we went to our next adventure`.

We lifted off Mirante do Gaviao Lodge beach in the seaplane at 7:50 with the same crew that brought us to the lodge. They gave us an equally delightful return to Manaus, flying low over the jungle

and very close to the river. Near Manaus we encountered the muddy Amazon again. Almost touching the water.

Although we have not been on the Amazon River at all this trip, we have been in the Brazilian state of Amazonia and people refer to the area as if being on the river.

The Pantanal, our next destination, is a natural region encompassing the world’s largest tropical wetland area, and the world’s largest flooded grassland. Located mostly in the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, it extends into the state of Moto Grosso and portions of Bolivia and Paraguay. (Refer back to the map of Brazils states.) It sprawls over an area between 54,000 and 75,000 square miles with various sub regional ecosystems that each have distinct hydrological, geological and ecological characteristics. Roughly 80% of the Pantanal floodplains are submerged during the rainy seasons, nurturing a diverse collection of aquatic plants and helping to support a habitat for nearly one thousand species of animals and many aquatic birds. Fishing is an important industry in the local economy and is also a staple food. Although much larger, the Pantanal has a habitat similar to the Everglades in Florida.

We will be visiting Caiman, an oasis in the Pantanal founded in 1987 with the purpose of conserving its flora, fauna and culture in the Pantanal Matogrossense National Park. “Thick bush” is the meaning of ”Matogrosso”. Our accommodations are in the lodge called Caiman on a 131,000 acre ranch that sustains many white Brahma cattle as well as thousands of birds, animals, amphibians, fish and bugs all being conserved and made available for tourists to experience.

We spent over 6 hours in a King Air C90A getting from the Amazon region to the Pantanal. The weather was so stormy south of Manaus that we bounced all over the sky and were forced us to divert around several storms cells. After a refueling stop in a place called Alta Floresta and another 3 hours in the air we landed on the Caiman airstrip in front of the Caiman lodge. Fortunately, the weather was cooler, barely humid and most pleasant. We felt comfortable again.

Waiting to greet us were a young lady named Laura and her driver named Coche. They were ready to take us on a game drive, so after checking into our room, we were in a safari vehicle on a game drive. We saw several animals and birds in short order and were cooler and happier than we had been anywhere in the Amazon. Our first sighting were several of the world’s largest rodent, the Capybara, then a crab-eating fox, a pair of turquoise-fronted Amazonia birds, which are actually green parrots, several pampas deer, like our deer only smaller. Laura told us we would have a different guide for the next three days as we will be on a special program for jaguar conservation. These are the animals I succeeded in photographing.

The drive with her lasted until dark and dinner at 7:30pm. The meal was buffet and included several pizzas, an attraction for us after weeks of Brazilian food…good but not like home.

Monday, October 20, 2025

Up at 5am and on safari by 5:30, we met our Jaguar conservation guide, named Rafael, and our new driver, Chipa. Rafael immediately began telling us about the early morning birds: a Burrowing Owl, a buff-necked Ibis, many big and noisy birds called Chaco Chachalaca and the largest birds of all, a pair of rhea, ostrich-like birds.

Giant Anteater on the prowl

Then we saw a large anteater slowly eating its way through a termite hill. Anteaters apparently have bad hearing and vision, but a good sense of smell.

We stopped at a flower-covered watering hole and saw parakeets, green ibis, bare-faced ibis, large jabiru storks, a tiger heron, a falcon and a hyacinth macaw. Back in the plains and open grass land we spotted a Great Potoo and its chick in the crook of a tree. Very well camouflaged.

Potoo mother and chick
Cat’s claw vine. The vine has spikes like a tiny claw. A pretty plant with a nice smell, but nasty spikes.

Tuesday, October 21, 2025

Here are some of the Pantanal creatures we say during our second day’s safari.

During the late afternoon game drive we saw a Marsh deer, the largest in the Pantanal, a grey rocket, similar to a small deer, and a yellow-billed cardinal. We did a lot of driving around to see animals and birds we could not photograph well.

Dinner was an interesting outdoor bar-b-que with the beef rolled on 2 inch thick, 5 foot long sticks and rotisseried. I was able to get some rare pieces and found it tasty. This lodge, unlike other places we have been, is completely full.

Wednesday, October 22, 2025

Another early start and an animal we saw frequently was a white lipped peccary. This animal travels in large groups and is always on the move. Mark managed to get this one to stand still for a photo.

At 9am it was time for breakfast and the air was getting hot. After breakfast, we headed for a shady spot on the edge of the pool. At 4pm we reconnected with Rafael for our evening game drive.

A large caiman soaks up the heat

The heat of the day was fading and the drive was pleasant. Not long after leaving the lodge, we heard there was a jaguar sighting and off we went in search of it.

Rafael holds the radio tracker to home in on the jaguar’s collar.

Finally, our driver and Rafael tracked the collared animal and we soon realized there were three jaguars; a mother, named Aroeira and 2 one and a half year old male cubs, Jatoba and Jacaranda.

But more than that, there was a Giant Anteater with a baby on her back that was challenging the jaguars. It was fascinating to watch the animals chasing one another and then backing off. No one was going to win this exchange. Unfortunately, the challenge took place in the woods and we struggled to see what was happening.

Tuesday, October 21,2025

Chipa, Rafael, me and the OnCafari truck

A quick cup of coffee and we were back on the road for our second safari day with Rafael and Chipa. Having met our goal of seeing jaguar, we were interested in seeing what else the Pantanal had to offer.

Our first sighting was a bird called Crested Oropendola and its unusual nest. The bird flew away before I could get to my camera, but I did get the nest.

The bird is quite large for such a nest, but squeezes into a hole near the top and settles into the bottom, causing the entrance hole to close. Then we saw another Crested Caracara, and a herd of white-lipped peccary on the run.

There were many other birds and animals we were unable to capture with our iPhone cameras. Am sorry we did not have better camera equipment. In the middle of the day we chilled in our cool room. The day was exceptionally hot and humid. Too much even for the poolside.

On the evening game drive, Rafael told us another Jaguar had been spotted, so we headed through the countryside to find it. It was nearly dark when we came upon a collared female named Surian and her 2 year old male cub, named Dakari. I was only able to get snaps of Dakari.

Dinner was an outdoor bar-b-que with beef rotisseried on 2 inch round, 5 feet long sticks. When asked for thin rare slices, the server was able to shave off a few pieces. The meat tasted good.

We sat next to a couple from Geneva, who spoke enough English we were able to converse. Although they have children and grandchildren, they refuse to let kids keep them from traveling, an attitude we could appreciate.

Wednesday, October 22, 2025

Our third 5:30am safari start. We started off seeing a group of Copybera, munching on the grassy lawn, a bare-faced Curassow, a Pied lapwing, a cute antelope like animal called a Grey Bracket. Mark nicely captured a pair of Blue-crowned Parakeets nesting in a tree hole.

Then Rafael told us a BBC crew was working on a Jaguar project, so we headed to the site and took up a station out of the BBC crew’s way.

We sat watching a new pair of Jaguar, Arancy, a collared female, and her 7 month old son, Mocoha, for a long time. Tried to get good photos, but, not having a good, long, lense, we are hampered.

7 month old Mocoha

Late afternoon drive started with rain. Thankfully it was brief. The ponchos were very heavy. We drove for 40 minutes to the sight of a dead cow to see what was happening to it. These photos tell the tale.

A mother, her two cubs and a nephew hang out while waiting to finish eating the cow.

Thursday, October 23, 2025

And so we end our very interesting adventure in the Pantanal. We have seen 8 different jaguars and many other creatures we have not seen elsewhere.

And so we fly onward from the Caiman Lodge airstrip to Alta FLoresta, then we have a 1.5 Hour drive and a 30 minute boat ride to our next destination.

Unfortunately, I have had several glitches with this post and some events are out of order. The content is all here, if dislocated. Please forgive the errors.

The Rio Negro meets the Amazon

Wednesday, October 15, 2025

This morning we departed our friendly boat experience on the Tupaiu, saying good bye to Captain Sebastian and his delightful crew.

Carlos, Milena, Gilvandro, Marcia, Saccoro, me, Sebastian and Mark

At the Santarem airport, we said good bye to Carlos, who had been an excellent guide and helper.

Who knew Manaus was so large. It has 2.3 Million people

Then we flew 2 hours to Manaus and transferred to a float plane for the trip from there to our lodge, Mirante do Gaviao on the Amazon River.

Me and the floatplane pilot

The float pilot knew we were pilots and that we wanted to fly as low as possible. He honored our request and we flew so low, we actually skimmed the surface of the river for a couple of minutes and did several low passes along some beaches. The 40 minute trip lasted an hour.

Finally we landed next to the beach in front of the lodge. What a way to travel. The time was 5pm, and we had been traveling since 10am and gained an hour on the clock.

The lodge had pre booked us for several excursions and our first one started at 6:30. An 8-meter open boat speeded down the river for 40 minutes in the dark until we came to an area the guides intended to search for night creatures. They used spotlights on the trees and found 2 small sloths high in the trees.

With some effort our guide captured two different types of Caiman. The first was a Black Caiman about three feet long and small. Our guide held it tightly and we were all able to touch it. He let it go and looked for another. Finally, he caught a five foot Speckled Caiman that put up a big fight. He taped its mouth shut to be able to handle it.

After that we speed-motored back to the lodge in time for dinner at 9:15.

Thursday, October 16, 2025

Down on the beach by 8:30, we were ready for our next excursion, but had to wait for the family riding with us to arrive. Their two boys were very high energy at 5 and 7 year olds who talked non-stop. I remembered…again… why we have no children. We speeded down river another 40 minutes again to a small creek where several indigenous men waited in canoes to take our entire group of about 15 for canoe rides around Tiririca Creek.

It was a nice ride, but we saw only one egret the whole time. A bust, I thought. Back in our speedboats, we motored to a sand-less beach in the middle of the river. Our guides thought there would be a sand bar but the river is not low enough yet. We all went swimming in the shallow, somewhat refreshing water that was a light root-beer color.

The water makes my skin look yellow, and deeper, my leg looks red. Definitely not for drinking.

The guide told us the beach will appear in another couple weeks as the river continues to recede. We got back to the lodge just in time for Mark’s massage.

He thoroughly enjoyed his massage, even as he looked slick and greasy. We enjoyed delicious lunches of pasta and seviche. Then we cancelled the afternoon activity and relaxed the rest of the day.

Friday, October 17, 2025

Mark woke up with heat rash on his arms. After breakfast, an English speaking lodge staff person drove us to the hospital in the nearby town, Nova Airao. The ER looked full, but the process went quickly and soon a doctor checked Mark’s arms and gave him a prescription. At a local pharmacy, he purchased the prescribed salve and soon we were back at the lodge in time for me to join the day’s activity. Mark stayed cool in the lodge pool.

The activity included a 40 minute speedboat ride, an hour and a half hike through the steaming jungle. Our guide thought it was hotter than usual. I don’t think I have ever sweat so much.

Coaxing a tarantula out of its nest

The only animal we saw was a tarantula our guide coaxed out of its hole. Otherwise, we saw a colorful, but poisonous mushroom.

Colorful, but poisonous mushroom
A water vine. Clear,clean water flows from the vine when cut.
Map of Anavilhanas National Park. Our lodge is in Novo Airao in the upper left corner. Tiririca is 30 minutes by speedboat downstream. Manaus is miles away on right side of map.

After the hike we motored a short distance to a community called Tririca with 19 families and 43 people. They prepared a traditional Amazonian fish bar-b-que for our group of tourists, including Tambaqui, the fish we liked so much during the boat bar-b-que party night. It is called butter fish in English, with good reason.

Back at the lodge after lunch, I found Mark by the pool and jumped in to cool off. I was so hot, it took quite awhile to cool down.

Mark joined me for the 3pm afternoon activity to see pink dolphins. We sat in an enclosure with a few dolphins swimming freely to us for bits of fish. Two of the dolphins had deformed beaks and no teeth. Normal dolphins have 120 teeth. They become pinkish from eating shrimp, similar to flamingos. They can grow to three meters. We were with the dolphins for about 20 minutes.

Back at the lodge, we chilled in the pool. Had dinner at 7pm. Hamburger and fries for Mark and pasta with shrimp for me. Pretty much like home. Into bed early.

Saturday, October 18, 2025

Went bird watching by speedboats at 6am. Saw few birds, though Mark knew most of what we did see: white-necked heron, egrets, red-headed cardinals, wood-creepers, blue heron, osprey, whistling ducks, and a few unnamed flying creatures. We also spotted a speckled caiman. But got no photos. I was lucky to see a few heron and osprey.

Back at the lodge, we took the rest of the day off. We are now three weeks into this 7 week adventure and a break was in order.

We have been overwhelmed by the heat and humidity of the last few days as we are near the equator and further north than we have been. Tomorrow we fly a bit south to get to the wetlands known as the Pantenal. We are hoping the weather is a bit cooler and less humid there.

Continuing into the Amazon

Monday, October 13, 2025

Sunrise and breakfast at 6am.

The captain motors slowly down river and into the Jari channel, an arm of the Amazon River, to a private home where the owner, a woman named Rosangela, gives us a tour of her forest preserve, which she called the Trail of the Sloth. She pointed out three sloths high in the trees but they were unphotographable. So we have included a photo of a Peruvian sloth you may remember from a post last year.

A Peruvian sloth

We also saw a couple of Potoo, nocturnal owl-like birds, though not related, that were asleep high in the trees. We were able to photo its backside. It feeds on insects and makes a very loud sound.

A potoo

Of considerable interest were Sapucaia, Monkey pod trees, that are huge. The trees give great shade and produce huge fruits that are woody, pot-like and suitable for a monkey to use. Each fruit contains many edible nuts. The tree is a tropical hardwood used for making furniture, curing stomach aches and treating blood pressure problems.

Other things we saw include

Back on the boat I learned about the Brazilian flag. The words on the flag say “order and progress” in Brazilian. Green is for forests, yellow is for mineral wealth, blue is for the sky. The 26 stars below the text are for the 26 states and are displayed as they were on 11/15/1889 in Rio the day of the founding of the republic. The single star above the words is for the state of Pará, the last state added and the largest territory north of the equator. Interesting flag.

We spent more time on the beach and in the warm water trying to stay cool. Had a nice salad lunch and more beach time until 4:30 when we went ashore to visit the Coroca community. In this village there are 23 families with 70 people.

A middle aged man met us and told us we were about to visit a turtle conservancy, a stingless bee farm making honey and a small, palm frond industry making colored grasses that are then woven into crafts for sale. They also made tie dye shirts as a gift for us.

We walked to a small holding tank where 500 turtles are kept separate for several months while they grow. Each turtle produces 90 eggs a year, resulting in 3000 baby turtles per year. 80% are let go into the river and 20% are moved into a large pond where 5000 turtles are kept to reproduce. There are all sizes, with turtles up to 28 years of age. We watched the turtle keeper feed the turtles a bucket full of pellets.

From there another man led us to an area where stingless bees are kept in several boxes. He opened one box and extracted a syringe full of liquid honey for me to sample. It was delicious. Then he sealed up the box and told us the honey is harvested each year from September to November at the rate of half a liter per box per month. The bees extract sap from trees as there is very little flowering fruit growing in the forest.

The community makes crafts from a special palm tree called a Tucuma. The palm fronds are dyed different colors—primarily red, blue and yellow—to be woven into different objects for sale. Another man made tie dyed shirts in the vats of boiling dye for us. Mine will be red and Mark’s will be yellow. Meanwhile, we bought some soap and a small jar of honey. Hope we get it home without breaking it.

During our walks through the forest we learned about many different trees. The more important ones include:

Açaí, a tree which produces many tiny purple fruits that, when the pulp is boiled off the seeds, tastes like dirt, according to Mark. It tastes somewhat better with lots of tapioca popcorn and sugar. However, it is much better as ice cream, which we had after dinner.

Another tree is the Jungle Cacau.

Later in the day we visited another Community called Atodi. They are an industrious community as they run a hammock hostel, maintain a school for their children, cultivate medicinal plants and sell medicinal products, and operate a library project called, Vagalume, which means “firefly”. The community has 48 families and 143 people.

We met the management team of the community, toured the hammock hostel, visited the school and listened as the students reading to us from the book, “The Giving Tree” by Shel Silverstein.

One member of the team, Neucimar, stayed with me as we toured the community. At one point she put red dye from a plant called Urucun on my face and I wore it the rest of the day. She posed for me against a wall of indigenous art. At the end of the tour we all ended up near the beach at a table full of special cassava snacks and crafts. We tasted the snacks and gave the crafts a pass. The team prepared a flower shower ceremony that took us by surprise. We marched to the edge of the river and water with the smell of flowers was poured over our heads. It did smell like flowers, though there were no flowers in the water. Apparently flowers are allowed to soak in the water for hours and the removed. Fortunately, we were very hot and the water was cooling. It was time to say good bye and Neucimar and I gave each other a big hug.

Back at the boat, we had lunch and an hour to relax before visiting another community. This time it was to learn how cassava is processed.

In the community called São Marcos, which has 13 families with 50 people and is set up to manufacture cassava flour, as well as tapioca and tucupi sauce for community use. There are 2 species of cassava, one of which is poisonous, which is the one these people use to produce flour. The non-poisonous cassava is eaten without being processed.

The first step in making cassava flour is to peal the roots, wash and then grind them.

Next add water and squeeze out the liquid by hand into a pot that will eventually become, tapioca and tucupi sauce. Meanwhile, peel a batch of cassava root that has been soaking for 3 days and is about 1/3rd the size of the first batch.

Hand mix the two batches together and squeeze the mash into a tipiti, a long woven tube made of jacatana palm leaves.

Once all the cassava is in the tube, hang it from a post, slip a long pole through the loop in the bottom of the tipiti, secure the pole to a notch in bottom of the post and apply weight to the pole. Water will pour out of the tipiti for some time as more weight is applied.

When no more water comes out, remove the cassava from the tipiti, put it through a shaker to loosen the fruit, then cook it stirring constantly until it is completely dry. Finally, aerate the flour to remove the dust. At that point you have edible cassava flour and the poison is gone. The process took two hours and we were ready to get back to the boat, and the beach.

Entering the oasis

This was the last and special evening for us and the boat crew. It started at 7:30 when we walked off the boat in the dark and onto the beach, which had been transformed into an oasis.

Our sofa made with sand

Luminaries lit our path to a sofa excavated out of sand and covered with fabric and pillows. When we sat on it we were tickled to experience a sofa on the beach. Milena served us cocktails and we enjoyed the scene with palm fronds placed in the sand as trees, luminaries everywhere and our table prepared behind the sofa.

Soon we had dinner with a very delicious fish called Tambaqui that had been barbecued perfectly and was served with a variety of side dishes. Such an event is called a Piracaia, or “fish bar-b-que on the beach”. After dinner, Carlos started music playing and the dancing began.

Finally, the evening ended and we were off to bed.

Tomorrow will we have breakfast, enjoy the final leg of the boat ride, disembark and head for the Santarem airport.

To the Amazon

Friday, October 10, 2025

Depart Lancois at 9am after a very interesting and action packed few days in the white Lancois sand dunes.

Drove an hour and a half to the nearest airport, in a town called Barreirinhas. Mark looked for an ATM. Found two. The second one had money Mark could access. We flew from there in a Cherokee 6, just like our old plane, with a pilot named Jeff. He flew us to Sao Luis, a 50 minute flight including a long low pass over the vast sand dunes saving us 2 1/2 hours of driving.

At Sao Luis we transferred to a Cessna Citation and were up and away after an hour on the ground. The captain was a man named Dercio.

The 2-hour flight went well until half way through the leg, when we lost the left engine. Oh well, sure hope one is enough. Dercio very calmly informed us he was making a detour to the nearest airport, Belem. Within 15 minutes we were in Belem and taxied to a hangar where a crew was waiting for the plane to arrive. We learned the failure was caused by a loss of oil pressure.

Another flight crew was called in to fly us onward in a King Air. We finally landed at our destination, Santarem, at 5:45pm. It was a long day of sitting but not nearly as long if we had used our scheduled commercial flight.

One this map you can see Sao Luis in the east, our stopover in Belem and Santarem, our current destination. Later we will fly to Manaus.

Carlos, our next host, met us at the Santarem airport and accompanied us to our hotel for a night, Casa da Orla, on the beach in a small town called Alter do Chao, where we are to pick up our 4-day boat ride on the 11th. Here the river Tapajos meets the Amazon. Carlos left us to ourselves for the evening and we wandered the streets of the town until we settled on a place for dinner. The food, angel hair pasta with crispy garlic and green olives on pizza was not very good, but it was filling. The air is very warm and humid and we are grateful for the good AC unit in the room. Out of the heat, we went to bed early.

Saturday, October 11, 2025

Up by 7am, we enjoyed a view of the little “Island of Love” across the river from our windows. It is a popular place to spend the day sitting in the water. Six months of the year the water is low as we see it here. The other six months the water level is right to the edge of the road. Best to be here now, even if it is hot.

About 10am we went out into the heat to walk the streets and search for a 2-piece bathing suit for me. We did buy a suit and saw a hat with the town’s name on it, but never again. Way too hot and sticky to try on clothes.

The small town we overnighted in before getting on a boat for 4 days.

Back in the room we stayed put until Carlos came to fetch us to go to our boat. Sure hope it has good AC.

Our 4-cabin boat, the Tupaiu. We sleep in one cabin and use another for a dressing room. Every room is quite small.

Once on board, we learned the boat does have reasonable AC in the bedroom cabins. Carlos introduced us to the boat crew, the captains gave us the safety talk and off we went. Shortly thereafter, we were served a nice lunch of fish, rice, beans, cassava and salad greens. This seems to be the usual fare at meal time. We, at least, loved the greens.

This map shows the location of Santarem and the small town of Alter do Chao. We will be traveling mostly on the Tapajos River, which runs into the Amazon right in front of Santarem.

We motored 2.5 hours upstream on the Tapajos River to a lovely beach and dropped anchor. The crew set up shade cloth and chairs for us and soon we were in the very warm, but peasant fresh water.

We stayed in the water until late afternoon when we went for a canoe ride through the local mangrove-like waterway hoping to see birds, snakes, crocodiles and any other living thing.

The indigenous man who paddled us through the swamp, was excellent at paddling without making a sound. Soon we were all quiet too and looking intently for anything that moved. We saw many birds but only recognized, woodpeckers, a couple of eagles and a few kingfishers. As the sky became dark we stopped hearing birds and started hearing frogs. Many of the sounds were new to us, including the frog calls. The canoe man dropped us off at our tender and back we went to the boat for dinner.

At about 8pm, our two cooks presented us with steaks, a delicious eggplant cassarole and the usual rice, crispy cassava and green salad. Dessert was ice cream. Then we organized our clothing and went to bed. In spite of the small bed, we slept reasonable well. The boat stayed parked on the sand island.

Sunday, October 12, 2025

A relaxed morning with coffee and fruit for breakfast.

About 10am, we took the tender further upstream to a small community of 153 people in 45 families, who produce latex products from a few rubber trees in the area for tourists.

At one time there were thousands of rubber trees cultivated as a large business with the latex going mostly to China. Before that, just a few kilometers up the beach is a small town founded by the Ford Motor Company back in the 1930’s, called Belterra. Meanwhile, the trees developed a blight, so shoots from the trees were planted in China, where the latex is now commercially produced. The local business we visited, Jamaraqua, is a cottage industry with limited products going to tourists who visit the area. A local artisan gave us a demonstration of the process for making artifacts for tourists.

Finished latex sheets ready to be cut into various products.

We bought a few necklaces and went for a walk through the forest and out to another beach.

On the way, Carlos named a few trees and saw a small green Parrot snake. We watched it for awhile, but it did not move much, so we walked on and spotted a Strangler Fig and a Gumbo Limbo tree that has stripes on its bark.

We also noticed a few Ipe trees across the river due to their yellow flowers. At the beach, the water was much cooler and more refreshing. After awhile, the tender picked us up and took us back to the boat for lunch.

We were served what we had asked for—a big, mixed green salad.

Then we were back to our shaded beach setting for the afternoon. AT 5:30 The captain pulled the anchors and we motored downriver back to Alter do Chao for the night. We were served a nicely prepared filet mignon and chatted with Carlos for quite awhile before turning in.

Lencois, where is that?

Tuesday, October 7, 2025

Departed Salvador in mid afternoon and arrived in San Luis about 5:30. Hit the road in a 4-wheel drive truck for what we learned would be a 4 hour ride to Casa Oia, a hacienda near a town called Santo Amaro. Our driver spoke no English and our guide, Pedro, also known as Salim Rosa, made up for it as he talked non-stop. We did learn a bunch of information about his personal life as well as some details of interest to us.

Half way into the very dark drive on a fairly rough road, we pulled into a crowded truck stop and had a beer and a piece of pizza for $1.87. Cheapest food ever. Back on the road, Pedro kept talking, but refused to tell us about where we were going. So, at 8:45pm we arrived at a grass-covered, open-walled building and were met by the manager, who told us dinner was ready. So, without seeing the room, we had a tasty seafood risotto dish on an open veranda. To get to our air conditioned room in a separate building we trudged through sand. The outside air was very pleasant with a slight breeze. Mark suggested it felt sensuous. How nice. The room, however, felt cold. We were soon in bed with the lights off.

The history we learned from Pedro was that the French landed on a beach in San Luis Island in 1612 and started to build a settlement and a fort to honor King Louis XIII. In 1615 the Portuguese challenged the French, and, with fewer men but superior firepower, they beat the French in the battle called Guaxenduba that lasted only an afternoon. The area we are staying is east of San Luis and is called Lencois Maranhenses National Park, which is what our program says we have come to see. The park is 600 square miles in size and borders three towns including Santo Amaro, where we are staying. Maranhao state is part of the NE region of Brazil. It is mostly agricultural with soybeans and rice being the major products, 100% of which goes to China. There are 26 states and 1 federal district in Brazil.

Map of states in Brazil

In the top of the North East state of Maranhao, you will see the island of Sao Luis where the French lost the region to the Portuguese. Our adventure takes place just a bit east of Sao Luis near the town of Santo Amaro at a grass covered Hacienda called Casa Oia. We arrived at 8:45pm, met the manager and were escorted directly to dinner. I was not hungry, but could not resist the delicious seafood risotto. Then we walked through a sand pathway to our room and went directly to bed.

Carnauba palm tree with an interesting spiral shape. Endemic to Brazil.

Wednesday, October 8, 2025

We were up early and out by 7am to see where we were. It looked like scrub brush to us and not interesting. After walking around a bit and enjoying a nice breakfast, we were told to wear our bathing suits as well as a cover up.

At 9am, we climbed into safari seats in the back of a pickup truck. Pedro joined us along with a driver and local guide. Off we went through the scrub land and grass plains, which eventually morphed into polar-white sand dunes, heading for a shallow, rain water lake. It took 40 minutes driving over the dunes to reach the pretty, warm water lake. By then the surprise was wearing off and we understood why our travel agent had sent us here. The scenery was otherworldly, never mind the intense wind that pelted our bodies with sand.

We waded in a good distance to get wet up to our waste, while the guys set up a shade cloth, chairs, towels and a table with snacks. They disappeared in the truck while we enjoyed the beach almost alone. An hour of sun and wind-swept sand pelting us was enough. The crew returned and we went back to the Casa Oia to cool down and get out of the wind. Lunch of local garden fresh greens and hake was served outdoors in the shade about 1pm.

In the late afternoon we rode ATV’s through the dunes and got some really nice images. Hard to decide what to keep.

Dinner was served at a table for 2 in the vegetable garden. The appetizer was a mini pumpkin stuffed with mushrooms, cheese and soft pumpkin and the entree was king prawns covered with tapioca popcorn, sautéed vegetables and black rice with mango. Delicious. Then—our usual routine—back to the room, get ready for bed and soon, fast asleep.

Thursday, October 9, 2025—our 32nd anniversary

Mark remembered our anniversary, while I thanked him for remembering. Oh well. Maybe I will remember one day.

After our experiences of the day before, we were ready for the day’s activities—A long drive to a different lake and a hour to swim and relax by the shore under a shade cover provided by our drive crew. We hoped for privacy on this lake, but, just like the day before, groups of other people appeared and took up space around the lake. I was feeling possessive, but realized that the lake was more than big enough for everyone there. We took lots of photos along the way and are struggling to keep only the best ones.

Back at camp for lunch at 2 under a cluster of cashew nut trees decorated with colored streamers, we were served a good beef stew along with rice, cassava, okra greens, fried egg and tapioca-coated plantain, my favorite part.

At 5pm we drove a short distance to a river and climbed into a 30-foot open boat for a ride to a sundowner on a sand dune. It was a 10 minute walk from where we got out of the boat to the sand dune where we watched the sun go down.

Unfortunately no alcohol is allowed in the park so Mark had put some booze in his water container and we had a real sundowner. We also got some nice photos. Back on the boat, the water was so shallow that we kept getting stuck in the sand. The boatman had to get into the water and push us several times. I felt sorry for him, but he seemed not to mind.

The day was not over. The manager told us dinner was to be a luau and to get ready for a 20 minute drive. Left camp at 7:40 and drove through the sand dunes in the dark. I felt very uncomfortable being in the dunes after dark, but the driver knew exactly where he was going and finally we saw lights in the sand. There was no luau, but a small table set for regular dinners. There was one other couple and ourselves. The meal consisted of crackers with baba ghanoush as a starter and mashed pumpkin with dried beef for the entree. We learned that this “luau” is served most evenings to different couples. While we ate, the waining moon rose over a tall sand dune. A nice, unexpected touch. there was just enough wind to keep us from relaxing and after an hour we were ready to leave. Fortunately, the other couple was ready to go also.

Dinner on the dunes

Friday, October 10, 2025

Travel day. Up 6, out at 9.

Heart of palm

This photo should have been sent during our Rio segment, but I think it is important enough to send it now. It is a photo of baked heart of palm as it is presented in restaurants in southern Brazil. You cut it, pull a piece out of the stalk with your fork and eat. Quite delicious and very different than what we get from a jar in California.

Next stop, Salvador

Sunday, October 5, 2025

Departed Rio at 8:30 and arrived at Salvador at 10:30. Were met by Icaro, our local guide. He reminded us that Salvador, which means Savior, has the largest proportion of black population in Brazil. The city’s population is 2.4 million, 80% of which is black. Of the 13-15 million slaves brought to Brazil, most of them came through Salvador.

Our hotel, the Fasano, eclectic and art deco

Salvador is the third largest city in Brazil behind São Paulo and Rio, but it was the first capital from 1549 to 1763. It was important as the main city on the Brazilian coast that defended against pirates as it is on the banks of the second largest bay in the world, the largest bay being Hudson Bay. It is named the Bay of All Saints because it was discovered on November 1, All Saints Day on the Catholic calendar. Rio was the capital from 1763-1960, when Brasilia was built and became the capital.

As we walked around the old down town we saw a statue to a man named Thome de Souza, who was the first governor of the colony of Brazil beginning in 1549. The styles of architecture we saw included colonial, eclectic and art deco, baroque and Spanish baroque. Some of the buildings still sport Lios marble door frames. Salvador is the only city in Brazil that had stone walls. Some parts still exist.

The weather was warm and slightly humid, but not too hot for walking. Eventually we stopped for lunch at a place called Cuco Restaurant. The place was full of people, but what we ordered, shrimp and ceveche, was just ok.

We visited a couple of churches for their architectural style. One church was famous for its blue tiles that came from Portugal in the 1700s to decorate the interior of the sacristy of the baroque St Francis Church. The church was quite rich during those years. There was a huge jacaranda wood dining table set for 32 people in the sacristy and beautiful blue Portuguese tiles depicting stories of historical events that ornamented the walls of the sacristy.

We saw the exterior of several churches we could not enter. There are 377 Catholic churches in Salvador. Many churches are private and operate on an ad hoc basis when paid for service. Others only open for Mass and to visit. We paid to enter St Francis Church, third order, which works like a private institution.

After leaving St Francis, we sat enjoying the view and the cool breeze at the top of Pelourinho Square, AKA the whipping post square during slave years. The square was on a slope. While there, 5 ladies from the Dida Banda Femanina arrived playing drums. They had been hired by our Brazilian tour operator, Tami, to give us a personal experience of drumming. After several minutes they turned and proceeded back up the street with us and others following. At the entrance to their drumming school-office-practice place, they stopped playing and we followed them into the building and their practice room.

Soon they were drumming again with Mark and I joining in on our designated drums. It was a lot of fun and loud enough that you could not hear our mistakes. Once we all stopped playing, they introduced themselves and told us a bit about how they each got into drumming. They ranged in age from 17 to 55. Some had families that supported them and others had fathers who did not. There are about 40 ladies who drum during the year and 90 who participate in carnival time.

We left the school at 5:45 and drove to our hotel. Up on the roof top we had a drink, then went to dinner in the hotel dining room. I was in bed asleep at 8pm. Very nice day, but too much booze at dinner for me.

Monday, October 6, 2025

Lots to see and learn today. The style of buildings is important in Salvador as each building is prominent even if it is derelict, as many are. We learned to differentiate between, colonial—2 stories with simple lines and visible roofs and light colors; baroque—more fancy with roof not visible, 3 stories or more and use of different stones; eclectic—a mix of several styles influenced by French and Italian design; art deco—transition style in the 40’s between eclectic and modern; rococo—blue color on roofs, very ornamental; Spanish baroque—more ornamented than Portuguese baroque.

While looking at various styles of buildings we drove to the city’s large African market and did a long walkabout identifying different foods. The indigenous African religions are represented by different products for sale including woven baskets, special foods and religious, metal sculptures we saw. The name of the local religion is Candomble. It became popular in Brazil in the 1800’s, especially in the state of Bahia, where Salvador is located. Here are some baskets and statues.

We also identified several foods: acerola, looks like a cherry, but is sweet and sour and exceeding high in Vitamin C; cashew fruit, looks like a cashew nut; sweet potato, cassava and Inhame, an African root; massive, a vegetable; Tamarine, a sweet and sour spice; Tobaco, used for religious offerings and for fertilizer; genipapo, similar to a fig, dark and sweet and used to make liquor. And other things I did not catch.

Our guide, Icaro, and I sitting in chairs used by indigenous people as offerings to their gods.

From the market we went directly to the home and kitchen of Chef Murilo. He is a delightful character along with his mother, an artist of some note, who is preparing for a show she is calling “Black is Beautiful”.

After some light conversation we began the class. The first course will be Casquinha de Siri, or little shell crab. The main course will be another Moqueca, like the one we had with Mica, only with Hake fish rather than shrimp.

Chef Murilo teaching us how to make Moqueca and Casquinha

Our task was to chop the onions, tomatoes, peppers, cilantro while the Chef poured olive oil and palm oil into two heating pans. The large pan was made of clay crockery. When the pans were hot, Mark put part of the ingredients in the small pot for the first course and the rest of the chopped vegetables into the large one. We chatted about the Chefs history while waiting for the food to cook. Eventually, the chef put the fresh crab into the small pot and I stirred it while Mark watched the large pot. The chef put hake fish into the large pot and served up the crab dish along with cassava.

The crab dish tasted better than I expected. When we finished the crab, the hake was cooked and we each served ourselves. I already knew the Moqueca would taste good and was happy to learn how it was made. Hopefully, Mark will make it when we get home.

The chef and his mother gave us a tour of their 4 story house. Every corner was full of her art, including the furniture itself. They made for an interesting pair and I almost hated to leave.

From there we drove back to the whipping post square to see the inside of the Our Lady of Black People Church.

Our Lady of Black People Church

At the entrance is the Virgin Mama Muxima. The church was built between 1709 and 1890 outside the city walls. It was designed, built and painted by black people. The ceiling was painted by Joseph Pinto Lima Dos Reis in 1890. It was finished at the time slavery was abolished. We toured the church, sacristy and upstairs rooms.

The statues include saints I never heard of; St Benedict’s, St Efigenia, St Anthony from Categero, St Domingos de Gusmao. I did recognize Our Lady of Conception, St Joseph and the Pieta.

There was also a photo of a beautiful lady named Anastacia (born around 1740), who was a slave with piercing blue eyes. She rebelled against her slave owner and slavery and was forced to wear a metal mask and collar that kept her from speaking. She died of tetanus from wearing the collar and has been considered for sainthood by the Catholic Church.

Some of the last arriving slaves went back to Benin after they were freed. They had come to Brazil as Muslims, returned to Benin and built a mosque according to the style they learned about while in Salvador. They were recognized as “Agudas”, returnees after the abolishment of slavery.

Mosque built in Benin by slaves who returned free.

In the evening we went to a Folklorico Show about the Indigenous religion and dances. We saw costumes of the different gods, dances they did as well as a samba dance.

The dances were interesting, but long. The gods represented include: Red for god of storms; Yellow for attraction and sensuality; Straw for skin disease and healing; Black for war and iron; Green for god of forests, hunting and hunters.

The small theater was full. Icaro told us they perform three times a week and have done so for years. As folklore shows go, it was better than most.

After the show, Icaro joined us for some pizza and beer on the plaza. Then off to the room and bed.

Tuesday, October 7, 2025

Relaxed morning with airport pickup at noon. Time to get some blog work done.

Back to Rio, searching for Hope and Crosby

Thursday’s October 2, 2025

We departed Paraty at 8am with new driver named Sassa, who had lived in the states for several years and spoke good English. As we drove along the coast headed for Rio we learned about him and other details he shared about Brazil. There are 27 states in Brazil. 17 million people live in the state of Rio and 5.5 million live in the city. 15% of the Rio population is very poor and live in more than 700 favelas, each of which consists of jerry-built shacks packed together on the outskirts of Brazilian cities. They have some electricity and water, but most often, no sewer. Pretty miserable conditions, compounded by drug gangs that steal, fight and hurt people. Sassa warned us to stay away from the favelas. Sounded good to us. He told us the minimum wage in Brazil is $300 per month and 27% of the population of the country live below the poverty line. Not even close enough to live on. Rio alone received 1 million slaves, while the entire US received only 800 thousand. Interesting statistic.

Soon we arrived at the home and gardens of Burle Marx, a famous landscape architect. On arrival we met our Rio guide, Mica, who joined us on our tour of the gardens. The garden guide was a man named Mateo. We learned much from him as we walked through the garden, park and buildings.

Burle Marx in his garden

Turns out Burle Marx was a versatile fellow of many talents including painting, tile design and piano playing, as well as landscape design. He purchased 98 acres of land near Rio in 1949 and converted it into a lovely park and garden over many years. He was able to move onto the property in 1963 and lived there until his death in 1994 at the age of 84, without finishing his labor of love. He did give the property to the government, which has maintains the grounds and opened them to the public. His landscape talent and ideas spread around the country and he is famous throughout Brazil and internationally.

Brazil has 11% of the world’s 350,000 plant species, the most of any country.

The plants and names are listed here as best I can remember them.

Fig tree, 60 years old
Bear Fur Grass, the dark grass about 2 feet tall. There is also the trunk of an Iron Wood tree
Mateo, our expert garden guide
Agave, once the plant finishes blooming, it dies. It is in full bloom here
Crown of Thrones in full bloom
Armadillo orchid grows from the ground out
Silk floss pod from tree. Feels like silk
Cycad, an ancient pine tree, that looks like a palm
Brazilian Red Cloak
Lobster Claw, a large heliconia
Silk Floss tree with Spanish Moss hanging down, Sapucaia seeds above the moss(a cousin of the Brazil nut), a cactus bromeliad called Frog Mouth to the right of the moss, a huge unknown bromeliad above the seeds and silk floss pods at the top of the tree.
Bengal Clock, a climbing vine with a purple flower.
Terrestrial Sobralia, a pink orchid
Spent flowers from a jade vine.

In addition to the gardens we toured the buildings Marx used including his home and work spaces. We saw his ceramic collection, his piano and his own paintings.

Finally, we arrived at our hotel, the Fasano Rio de Janeiro. The room is not large, but it has a wonderful view overlooking Ipanema Beach and is interestingly laid out to take advantage of the tight space. In the triangular hallway is a stuffed chair in the shape of a woman. Mark took advantage of the opportunity.

After the garden tour, we had lunch a favorite place of Mica’s. The super dish we had was called Moquech, or Shrimp Stew. Excellent.

Our guide Mica and the piping hot shrimp stew.

After lunch we drove to Sugarloaf mountain and rode 2 cable cars to the top for views of the city and The Redeemer. Mica paid $70 each for us to have VIP benefits. It was near dusk when we arrived and the platform was full of young people partying. We quickly checked out all the view locations using our VIP tickets to cut through the lines, and left. It was too crowded for our taste.

At first station on way to top of Sugarloaf, named by the Spanish for its shape.
The chair in the dark, windowless, triangular hallway. The walls are all paneled and the room doors are flush and hard to distinguish.
Our room at the Fasano

Friday , October 3, 2025

We met Mica at 8am for a very long day of sightseeing. First we drove through the city to the foot of hill where the Christ the Redeemer is located. On the way Mica talked about the Portuguese coming to Brazil. The Portuguese king when the country was colonized was John VI. He was followed by Peter I who declared independence from Portugal. His son Peter II was the longest reigning king and was good for Brazil as he promoted science and the arts. It was a cultural time. However, on 11/15/1889, Peter II was overthrown and exiled to Paris by a Coup d’ etat. Frequent coup d. etats occurred over the next several years. Then Balsonaro was elected President. Today, Lula is president. Regardless of popularity, he and Balsonaro appear to be the only two electable politicians at the moment, even though Balsonaro has been banned from running.

At the bottom of the Redeemer hill is the platform for the cable car. We paid $40 each and managed to get good seats in the car with Mica’s direction. No VIP tickets were available. The cable car passed through the world’s largest replanted urban forest. 100 thousand trees were planted by 11 slaves over 13 years under the direction of Peter II between 1861 and 1874.

The back of the redeemer with its head blocking the sun. Taken from the middle platform about 9am.

Mica is a musician who sings and plays drums, writes and records music. So it was no surprise that he believes black culture permeates the country and that “Samba music is the father of pleasure and the son of pain“ He made samba sounds all day long. Fortunately, samba is very pleasant to listen to.

At the top Redeemer platform we threaded our way through the crowds to get vantage points. At 6’4” tall Mica was very good at that. And he knew all the best places to take photos.

We learned that the body of the statue was completed in 1931 by a collaboration of people; the head and hands were made in France by a French artist and shipped to Rio; the workers signed their names on the back of the Redeemer’s heart that they you can see in the photos.

The statue is 98 feet tall, the pedestal is 24 feet and the span from hand to hand is 92 feet. The statue weighs 2500 lbs. It is hollow except for a staircase. A lightening strike nicked the tip of the long finger on the left hand. It is barely noticeable. It was last cleaned in 2010. 2.5 million people visit the statue each year, 6.8 thousand each day. The Catholic Church, which owns the property, is doing very well.

On the way down, we captured a photo of a nearby favela and a pretty yellow plant called a shrimp flower.

From the Redeemer, Sassa drove us by several lookout points looking over interesting neighborhoods, favelas, small neighborhood clothing stores and art galleries. We stopped in one gallery where we could not help ourselves and purchased a painting by a local artist. I also bought some clothes, for which I have almost no room. Eventually we stopped for lunch at Territorio Aprazivel, meaning Pleasant territory, and had a wonderful fresh heart of palm. Again, I forgot to photograph it. We had never seen an actual heart of palm in its casing and cooked to eat right out of the shell. Very unique. Hope I get another chance to photograph one.

At 3:30pm we arrived at the Carnival Experience Warehouse for a tour of the facility. Boy were we in for surprises and treats. Met by a professional lady dancer, we were told all about the history of carnival going back to 1932 and shown parts of the current construction for the next carnival. After giving us the information, she had us dress in last year’s costumes, participate in a dance with other professionals, learn to play some samba drum music and have hats made for each of us. Mica enjoyed watching us make fools of ourselves and took way too many photos. It was all good fun as well as informative. We watched snap shots of last year’s parade.

There are 5 different major groups, with 12 clubs in each group. Each club creates a theme, designs and builds 5 floats as part of their theme, hires 3000 costumed participants in addition to primary performers and people on each float. The parade lasts 1 hour and 20 minutes with participants traveling along a straight stretch of roadway with bleachers on both sides. The top winners on the first day, repeat the parade a second day with winners being announced at the end of the second day. The cost for each production is about $4.5 million.

I picked up a couple more flowers on the way back to the hotel. We grabbed a bite in the hotel bar on the top floor and went to bed. It had been a very pleasant, yet long, day.

Saturday, October 4, 2025

Our one day without guides or an itinerary. Slept in and hung out in the room watching the Ipanema Beach scene. Went for a walk in the afternoon and had an early and delicious dinner at Zaza Bistro, a few blocks down the street. It was another good recommendation by Mica. Walked back o the room and packed to depart early in the am for Salvador.

We never found Hope and Crosby. Guess they moved on.

More on Paraty

Tuesday, September 30, 2025

I learned that the English name of the monkey that wanted to join us for breakfast is a marmasat. Sangui is its Brazilian name.

Here are some lovely flowers growing in our hotel garden.

After breakfast we met up with Rodrigo and walked the dangerous cobbled streets again to the pier, where we met a catamaran that took us to the Sem Pressa, “no rush”, which waited for us at a different pier. The restauranteur, Gisela Schmidt, who provided our lunch, was waiting to tell us about our impending meal and details about the boat ride.

Then she left us in the hands of the captain and 2 staff and we were off. Every appetizer looked delectable and they had our attention before the captain pulled away from shore. We had tasted everything by the time the anchor was dropped in a calm and secluded part of the huge bay, an hour and a half later.

The day was perfect again, and we did get hot enough to go for a swim. The water is slightly warmer than Lake Tahoe, so I was able to get in without a strain. We were in the nearly fresh water for about 20 minutes. The bay is a mix of fresh water from two inbound rivers and salty from the ocean. We were close to the rivers where we swam.

Back in the boat, we were served lunch. There were several mini courses, each one an experience. The first was a perfectly cooked giant prawn served in a spicy coated glass with a lite aioli sauce. The second course was a miniature crab cake served on a tartar sauce. Not my favorite. The third course was a sea bass tartar.

Then came the main course; a perfectly prepared octopus arm accompanied by black rice, a cherry tomato compote, crispy rice-like cassava, a mussel and a grilled lime. The flavors went together beautifully.

After all that, we still had dessert. The staff put out a spread of 4 items and we each took some of each, of course: baked cheese cake; a dense coconut and rice pudding; pistachio flan; and dark chocolate brownies with white chocolate chips. I liked the pistachio flan and Mark liked the brownies.

About an hour after lunch, the captain turned on the engines and headed back to town. It was 5:40 before we reached our room. What a lovely day we had experienced.

Our boat, the Sem Pressa
Paraty from the boat at dusk. The name is pronounced Para chee by Brazilians.

Wednesday, October 1, 2025

Rodrigo and our driver for the day, Ivan, met us at 9am and off we went in a Range Rover Defender into the nearby mountains to learn more about Brazilian slaves. When brought to Paraty between 1590 and 1888, they were fattened up and put to work in many places harvesting sugar cane, coffee and gold.
They learned Portuguese and built a stone road up and down the coast to transport gold and other produce. We were shown parts of the road, which was made from huge boulders. Foot bridges were also installed along the way. One bridge, over the Pereque River next to the Bocaina National Park, led us to a black community restaurant called Quelombo. Once across the bridge, we were invited into a private meeting room to visit with 2 leaders and holders of community history, Ana Claudia and Alvaro. We learned that three ladies had banned together in 1888 to establish their dominance over the land that had been abandoned by their slave owner because the sugar industry had collapsed and the slaves had been freed. The land the ladies claimed was close to the river and close to the forest so there was no overgrazed land. They took possession of 290 hectares (716 acres) and the community families grew sugar cane, coffee, cassava, manioc, bananas, mangos and other fruits and vegetable until 1970, when some rich people hired expensive lawyers and tried to take the land away. The community fought for the land and finally received assistance from helpful lawyers who succeeded in securing the property for the community in perpetuity by Government decree. Community members can come and go, but they cannot buy or sell the land. On March 21, 1999, ownership was granted to 760 people, 130 families. Ana and Alvaro were very helpful in explaining the details to us and we had a pleasant time with them. The last thing we learned was that Ana’s great grandfather was related to one of the three original ladies who took possession of the land. His name was Gabrielle Joao.

Afterwords, we went down stairs where our feijoada lunch was ready for us. It tasted delicious, even better than the feijoada we had eaten in the Azores with Dad’s family. The ingredients include black beans, pigs feet and ears, ham hock, sausage, garlic and spices. Cassava, rice and collard greens are served on the side.

After lunch, we stopped at a Cachaca distillery, Brazilian rum, for a look and a taste. More than enough for me and Mark did not like it either. Next stop was in town where we bought a Brazilian flag. Back at our posada, I headed for the pool to be in the sun. Not long after I arrived, the sun was replaced by clouds. But it did not rain and I got caught up on the blog.