Wednesday, October 15, 2025
This morning we departed our friendly boat experience on the Tupaiu, saying good bye to Captain Sebastian and his delightful crew.
At the Santarem airport, we said good bye to Carlos, who had been an excellent guide and helper.
Then we flew 2 hours to Manaus and transferred to a float plane for the trip from there to our lodge, Mirante do Gaviao on the Amazon River.
The float pilot knew we were pilots and that we wanted to fly as low as possible. He honored our request and we flew so low, we actually skimmed the surface of the river for a couple of minutes and did several low passes along some beaches. The 40 minute trip lasted an hour.
Finally we landed next to the beach in front of the lodge. What a way to travel. The time was 5pm, and we had been traveling since 10am and gained an hour on the clock.
The lodge had pre booked us for several excursions and our first one started at 6:30. An 8-meter open boat speeded down the river for 40 minutes in the dark until we came to an area the guides intended to search for night creatures. They used spotlights on the trees and found 2 small sloths high in the trees.
With some effort our guide captured two different types of Caiman. The first was a Black Caiman about three feet long and small. Our guide held it tightly and we were all able to touch it. He let it go and looked for another. Finally, he caught a five foot Speckled Caiman that put up a big fight. He taped its mouth shut to be able to handle it.
After that we speed-motored back to the lodge in time for dinner at 9:15.
Thursday, October 16, 2025
Down on the beach by 8:30, we were ready for our next excursion, but had to wait for the family riding with us to arrive. Their two boys were very high energy at 5 and 7 year olds who talked non-stop. I remembered…again… why we have no children. We speeded down river another 40 minutes again to a small creek where several indigenous men waited in canoes to take our entire group of about 15 for canoe rides around Tiririca Creek.
It was a nice ride, but we saw only one egret the whole time. A bust, I thought. Back in our speedboats, we motored to a sand-less beach in the middle of the river. Our guides thought there would be a sand bar but the river is not low enough yet. We all went swimming in the shallow, somewhat refreshing water that was a light root-beer color.
The guide told us the beach will appear in another couple weeks as the river continues to recede. We got back to the lodge just in time for Mark’s massage.
He thoroughly enjoyed his massage, even as he looked slick and greasy. We enjoyed delicious lunches of pasta and seviche. Then we cancelled the afternoon activity and relaxed the rest of the day.
Friday, October 17, 2025
Mark woke up with heat rash on his arms. After breakfast, an English speaking lodge staff person drove us to the hospital in the nearby town, Nova Airao. The ER looked full, but the process went quickly and soon a doctor checked Mark’s arms and gave him a prescription. At a local pharmacy, he purchased the prescribed salve and soon we were back at the lodge in time for me to join the day’s activity. Mark stayed cool in the lodge pool.
The activity included a 40 minute speedboat ride, an hour and a half hike through the steaming jungle. Our guide thought it was hotter than usual. I don’t think I have ever sweat so much.
The only animal we saw was a tarantula our guide coaxed out of its hole. Otherwise, we saw a colorful, but poisonous mushroom.
After the hike we motored a short distance to a community called Tririca with 19 families and 43 people. They prepared a traditional Amazonian fish bar-b-que for our group of tourists, including Tambaqui, the fish we liked so much during the boat bar-b-que party night. It is called butter fish in English, with good reason.
Back at the lodge after lunch, I found Mark by the pool and jumped in to cool off. I was so hot, it took quite awhile to cool down.
Mark joined me for the 3pm afternoon activity to see pink dolphins. We sat in an enclosure with a few dolphins swimming freely to us for bits of fish. Two of the dolphins had deformed beaks and no teeth. Normal dolphins have 120 teeth. They become pinkish from eating shrimp, similar to flamingos. They can grow to three meters. We were with the dolphins for about 20 minutes.
Back at the lodge, we chilled in the pool. Had dinner at 7pm. Hamburger and fries for Mark and pasta with shrimp for me. Pretty much like home. Into bed early.
Saturday, October 18, 2025
Went bird watching by speedboats at 6am. Saw few birds, though Mark knew most of what we did see: white-necked heron, egrets, red-headed cardinals, wood-creepers, blue heron, osprey, whistling ducks, and a few unnamed flying creatures. We also spotted a speckled caiman. But got no photos. I was lucky to see a few heron and osprey.
Back at the lodge, we took the rest of the day off. We are now three weeks into this 7 week adventure and a break was in order.
We have been overwhelmed by the heat and humidity of the last few days as we are near the equator and further north than we have been. Tomorrow we fly a bit south to get to the wetlands known as the Pantenal. We are hoping the weather is a bit cooler and less humid there.
Adventures with Julia 