Adventures with Julia

March 2, 2017

Arrival in San Jose went smoothly. Our English speaking driver was a cute young woman who was happy to meet us and ready to go. The weather was perfect — comfortable with low humidity and a slight breeze. We had a delightful conversation with her along the way and learned that Costa Rica has 5 million people, 50% of whom live in or near the Central Valley where San Jose, the capital, is located. She was proud to tell us that her country has no military since 1948, when the government cancelled it and used the money to improve education and health care. Primary and secondary education is free and compulsory and there is 96% literacy. There are 2 national Universities and many private ones. Most Costa Ricans have good jobs and do not want to do hard labor, so many Nicaraguans have been imported to work in the sugar cane fields, the coffee plantations and construction.

As we drive I notice that the streets are very clean, the gardens are well kept, the houses are tidy and every property is fenced and gated, although not walled shut. Gradually, we began to wonder where we were going as we seemed to be in a very rural, residential area. It turns out our driver had not been to Xandari, the place we were to stay. We had no idea what to expect as we thought is was to be a quick airport stop before the real trip began. When we finally reached the place it was hidden behind a guarded gate and a huge botanical garden that took several minutes to meander through before we reached the reception. It was quite a lovely place, with blooming flowers and colorful art everywhere.

Approach to our room at Xandari Resort

Our room was a free standing villa a golf cart ride away from the main building. It was set on the edge of a hill with a full view of the city lights of Alejuela in the distance.

Zandari villa

The spaces in our villa were all different colors and shapes and we had fun finding our way around the place.

Our colorful Xandari shower

It was a destination in itself. When we woke up to the sunshine and colorful gardens outdoors the next morning, we were sorry I had arranged for a driver to pick us up at 8:30am, when 11;30 had been the suggested time. Oh well. Live and, maybe someday, learn. We walked through the lovely grounds filled with tropical flowers and colorful art objects to breakfast overlooking the same city and now visible gardens below. We dragged our feet about leaving, but finally joined our driver for the day trip to El Silence, a couple hours away.

March 2nd was a perfect day. Sunny, comfortable temperature, no humidity. Glorious. And the drive was a delight. We passed through several small town and villages and gradually passed through rolling hillsides with herds of black and white dairy cows, coffee and sugar cane plantations, vegetable gardens and scattered country houses.

Zarcero village and topiary garden

In the village of Zarcero we stopped at a charming Catholic Church, built in 1910, with a huge topiary garden in front of it and pretty decorations inside. It was a surprising and unexpected gem, that is obviously loved and cared for by the locals.

Zarcero Catholic Church with topiary gardens and the gardener

Gradually we climbed up into a cloud forest and reached 7000 feet before descending into a deep valley. The sunshine gave way to fog and then heavy mist. Once over the hill, we descended steeply to 4800 feet, where we finally reached our destination, El SIlencio Lodge. We thanked our second female driver for a safe journey and checked into our comfortable, but more modest cottage at the lodge.

Cottage at El Silence Lodge

This facility is eco-friendly, which means the 16 cottages and the dining hall are built on above ground pillars to respect the natural topography of the forest. A large creek runs through the property in a very deep and narrow valley, while the jungle of rain forest encroaches on the surrounding hills.

Female Resplendent Quetzal

We have expected to be hot and sticky while in Costa Rica. However, we find our selves in a cool, damp place where our fleece and rain coats are suddenly most important.

Male resplendent Quetzal

After a delicious eco-friendly, gluten free lunch, we take a short break and then go for a hike in the forest to see waterfalls and birds along the way. The three waterfalls were nice, but due to the overcast and mist, not very tantalizing. However, our bird sightings were something else. We were able to spot and identify, with the superior help of our guide, several birds which he thought were quite special to find: Black Guan, Slate Throated Redstart, Green Fronted Lancebill (a type of hummingbird with a spear like beak), Black-Faced Solitare and, best of all by far, a pair of Resplendent Quetzal making a nest. We watched them a long time. The male is extremely handsome with purple, blue and white markings and 18-20 inch long tail feathers. I will try to send a few photos.  I must admit we did not take these bird photos as we both forgot our cameras (won’t do that again).  However, we did see and identify each of them.  The most unusual and hard to spot were the Quetzal and the Lancebill.  We felt privileged and lucky.

Black-Faced Solitaire

Green Fronted Lancebill – a type of hummingbird

Long-Tailed Silky Flycatcher

The rain has stopped, the sky is clear and the stars are out. After an early dinner, we are tucked into bed with, of all unexpected surprises, hot water bottles nestled between the sheets. Who would ever expect to want hot water bottles in bed in Costa Rica?

Slate-Throated Redstart

Black Guan