Adventures with Julia

Sunday, February 12, 2023

We have been at the Argentinian Explora Lodge since Friday. It is newer, but smaller than the one in Torres De Paine, Chile. It is not in the Park, but next to it and provides the same sense of being in the wilderness — comfortably. During the daytime we are out hiking on a track we specifically selected the evening before. During the hike we have a guide, but see no other people on the trail. At the end of the chosen hikes, long or short, difficult or easy, the guests return to the lodge, where all the creature comforts await. Mark and I have chosen relatively easy hikes to keep my knee happy.

Yesterday, we chose two half day hikes and had the same guide, Marianna, for both. No other guests joined us. I suspect it was too slow for most. The first hike started from the lodge and covered about 2.5 miles. It was not steep or windy, but it was a forest walk with lots of tree roots to cross.

As we hiked, as usual, we peppered our guide with personal questions. We learned Marianna is a single mom with a seven year old daughter. Guiding is a pastime activity to supplement her income as a government employee and it also keeps her near her love of climbing. She is lucky enough to own her own home, it’s currently only one bedroom that she shares with the daughter. She has hope to expand the house and build an apartment as well that she plans to rent for additional income.

We enjoyed the scenery and being in a forest, but I was tired by the time it was over. Back in the lodge we had a nice served meal, rested a bit and grabbed some snacks for the afternoon hike. Still just the two of us and Marianna. We were driven to the start point at a gravel bed along the edge of the Electric River. We gradually hiked up the gravel bed periodically crossing small streams as we went. Marianna made sure we crossed on rocks to keep our feet dry. Finally we crossed a bridge and climbed a small hill into a forested area. We could see where we had been and the glaciers high up on the mountains. The now wooded, trail gradually headed back down to the road. More difficult trails went up into the mountains for closer looks at the glaciers. Not for me. Maybe another time. By the time we were back at the car, we had covered over 5 miles and I was really done in. My total for the day was 7.5 miles according to my watch. The most I have walked since before my knee surgery. Back in the lodge, we called the spa for a jacuzzi appointment and got right in. Boy, did that soak feel good.

At cocktail time, we met with another guide, who described today’s options. Not wanting another long walk, I was thrilled to be offered a drive to a lake, a boat rode on the lake, Lago del Deseirto, and a relatively short hike followed by a bag lunch and a return to the lodge before 3pm. This had been Marianna’s suggestion to the guide staff. From the boat, we saw several glaciers, lots of wooded forest along the lake and on the hike. There were a couple dozen people on the boat, but they all scattered and we were alone with our guide, Pablo, and one other couple, who were from Chicago. We finally got to see the third type of birch tree, the evergreen called Guindo. This hike was a gradual up slope, all in the forest with some tall, 100 year old linga birch trees. Because this part of the forest was in the rain shadow due to a break in the Andes, which allows the Pacific weather stream to penetrate east, the terrain was lush and green with lots of moss, plants and grass.

The usual winds were not as strong these two days and we all appreciated the slight warmer and calmer weather. The hike lasted about 2 hours an we only went about 2 miles as Pablo stopped often to talk about the trees and plants we were seeing. The other couple were happy to go slow too. Pablo is married and has a three year old son, he is Ecuadoran and came to this area for his love of climbing too, just like Marianna. He is a full-time independent guide. Pablo reminded us that there are no thunderstorms or lightening in Patagonia because the exceedingly strong westerly winds we have experienced since being in Patagonia, do not allow the formation of cumulonimbus clouds

Monday, February 13, 2023.

We leave Patagonian this morning. It is not windy, but it is raining. We were very lucky the last 2 days of hiking as there had been very little rain and almost no wind. If I had it to do again, I would plan the trip differently and allow for more activity days in each place and a healthier leg to do the activities. However, we are off today to Buenos Aires where we understand the temperature is 90 degrees. Quite a change for sure. Here the temperature has been 45-50 degrees at most. The food at this Explora has been just like the food at the last one–mediocre–actually a bit disappointing. Our rooms have been, on the other hand, superior—spacious, good beds, big windows with great views and excellent service.