Tuesday, November 10, 2026
Last evening we had a most unusual meal, without realizing it. Our waiter suggested we have the courses called Cod Milt. He tried to explain it, but we finally gave up trying to understand what he was trying to explain and said ok. We still could not understand even as we ate it. It tasted ok and was creamy and slightly fishy. This morning we learned more about Shirako.
Cod Milt, the sperm sac of male cod, is a soft and creamy delicacy known as Shirako, or “white children” in Japan. It has a pale pink to white convoluted texture that resembles cream cheese. It has the texture of custard, melts easily in the mouth and is slightly sweet with a hint of fish. It is a seasonal food harvested mostly in winter months. Now that we know what it is, we are sorry we did not eat it more intentionally.
At 9:30 we left the villa on a one hour drive through Hiroshima to the train station. Boarded the train at 11:18 for a 1 1/2 hour trip to Osaka, where we met a previous guide Akiko, for two days of sightseeing in Osaka.
Kutsuo-ji Temple on a hillside near Osaka
This temple was built in 780 by Emperor Seiwa. It was rebuilt in the 2000’s after burning down a couple of times over the centuries. It is called the Win King Temple as the Emperor survived major illnesses. Recently, visitors have been buying Daruma figures (look like dolls without arms and legs) and placing then around the Temple property as rememberances and prayers. The bigger the figure the larger the donation. The Daruma idea comes from Zen Buddhism in India and has taken hold big time here at this temple.
Another concept that has taken hold is collecting stamps at each temple and shrine. In this temple there are six stations where the visitor makes their own complete stamp from a different color at each location. This is how mine turned out.
Finally, we arrived in Osaka proper and decided to visit the very unusual high rise called Sky Building. The two columns were built first and later the center section was completed on the ground and lifted into place by crane. It is 173 meters high and was finished in 1993.
The population of Osaka prefecture (compares with one of our states) is 8.7 million. Osaka city has 2.8 million people. The Yodo River runs through the city center, connects with the port of Osaka and flows into the Pacific Ocean.
Finally, we ended the tour for the day and checked into the Waldorf Astoria. We are on the 36th floor with a super corner view room. Nice way to end this wonderful trip.
We had a light meal in the hotel’s French dining room on the 29th floor and happily retired to our space.
Wednesday, November 11, 2026
Up for our final day of touring, we meet Akiko in the lobby and head off for the Osaka Castle, which was started in 1583 an completed in 1597. The place was crowded with people even by 9:30. Here, is the entrance archway and the incredible hug rock walls intended to process security frisk enemies.
Here is a depiction of how the castle looked when finished.
The founder of the Edo period, which began in 1603, was Ieyasu Tokugawa. He died in 1619, having secured the needed funds from his subjects. There were hundreds of years of intrigue and warfare that was a bit overwhelming.
The most interesting story is of a man born to a very poor family and ingratiated himself to the leaders until he became the most important leader by doing such things as hosting a huge tea party and inviting everyone high and low. He died at 62 leaving a 6 year old son who was unable to take over. At that point, I lost interest. The man’s name is Hideyoshi Toyotomi in case you want to look him up.
Akiko told us the cost to build the castle was 6.6 billion US dollars in 16th century money. All the feudal lords were required to pay the costs. Lightening struck the castle tower and crushed it in 1660. The tower alone was rebuilt in 1931 at a cost of 20-30 million and was finished in 1 1/2 years.
After a couple of hours we left the castle and drove downtown to Detonebari in the southern part of Osaka to do a bit of shopping. Mark bought a knife and I bought some chopsticks. We stopped at Osaka Osha and ate a few dumplings and gyoza and walked a pedestrian street full of people.
Akiko led us to the small Hozen Temple dedicated to the Moss Buddha, which was totally covered with green moss. He was surrounded by lanterns and concrete posts all indicating donations made to the little temple.
Then we strolled through shopping streets in the city. Many neon advertisements and hundreds of people walking every which way. Akiko walked us through many narrow streets as well as wide ones. Shops came in all sizes and price points. One street even had a Ferris wheel permanently stationed along the river.
In the evening we went out to see the city at night, eat different foods and hang out in a pub. Our guide was a funny man named Jamie. We had a lot of fun with him. We would never have gone out in the evening like this by ourselves so we were thrilled to have an escort. Our first stop was in the new world neighborhood called Shinsekai. We sampled several different sake’s and ate Kushikatsu; deep fried foods including: shrimp,Wagyu , pork belly, mushroom, and more, covered in a heavy breading, much heavier than tempura.
After walking around awhile we made a second stop at Uranamba, meaning “behind Nambe”and ate more fried foods called Okonomiyaki, which means “whatever you would like”. Our selection included layers of cabbage, flour with yeast, kimchi, pork, egg, mochi, cheese and sesame oil per Jamie’s direction. It did not taste bad, but was way out of our normal eating habit.
Finally, we took a taxi to our hotel and said good night and good bye to Jamie. It had been a delightful evening with him.
Thursday, November 12 2026
Our last day in Japan and a day without guides as well. We went on a shopping spree and never got out of our hotel area. We just went underground and found sweaters, jackets, shoes and scarves to consider. The shops all open at 11am. I thought we would go down town, but that did not happen as we found things we wanted close at hand.
In the evening we went to dinner at the Japanese restaurant in our hotel. It is a tepanyaki place called Tsukimi, meaning View of the moon.
I skipped the noodle dish as neither of us liked it. When the meal was finished, the chef and his assistant walked us to the door to say good bye. A nice touch.
Friday, November 13, 2026
Packed and ready to go, we went for a leisurely breakfast and stopped at the Peacock Alley for a photo. It is a lovely setting for a bar, tea house and Sunday brunch. A nice parting shot to our adventure in Japan.
